Honda S2000 Build Series
Honda S2000 build series - Part 9 ID4 Cluster
ID4 Cluster: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey Ever since the first images of this digital cluster started circulating online, I was immediately fascinated. It looked incredible, and I could only imagine how cool it would be to have one. However, the hefty price tag always held me back. As much as I admired it, I just couldn’t justify the cost. But then, luck was on my side. One day, while scrolling through Facebook, I stumbled upon a listing that seemed too good to be true—an unused, never-installed ID4 cluster for an unbelievable price of £650. I didn’t even think about lowballing the seller; it was already a fair deal, and I wasn’t about to miss this opportunity. The only catch? It was quite a journey to go and collect it. But that didn’t deter me. The seller had originally intended to install it in his own car, but before he got around to it, rust had taken over, leaving the vehicle beyond repair. With no use for the cluster anymore, he decided to sell it. As a kind gesture, he asked if I could send him a short video of the cluster powering up once I had it installed. Of course, I was happy to oblige. An Unexpected Bonus: The Camera Module To my surprise, the cluster even had the camera module enabled—an optional extra that I hadn’t anticipated. While this might be redundant for me since I’ve already wired my reverse camera to the center screen (which automatically switches to the camera view when I engage reverse gear), it was still a nice bonus. Unfortunately, the ID4 cluster doesn’t have an automatic trigger for the camera, meaning I have to activate it manually by pressing a key on the control pad. Not a huge inconvenience, but something worth noting for anyone considering this upgrade. Installation: A Simple Process The installation process is relatively straightforward, though it does involve a bit of cutting. Fortunately, the area that needs to be trimmed is completely hidden, even if I were to reinstall the original cluster in the future. That said, there was still a moment of hesitation. After all, I had just unboxed a brand-new dashboard, and within minutes, I was already cutting into it. It’s always a little nerve-wracking making permanent modifications to something fresh out of the box, but in the end, it was a necessary step to make the ID4 cluster fit perfectly. Not Quite Plug-and-Play: A Small But Necessary Modification I have to say it—installing the ID4 cluster isn’t exactly plug-and-play. There’s a small additional step required, but nothing too difficult. The main modification involves rerouting a single wire to get the temperature reading from the ECU. Thankfully, this step is well-documented by the cluster manufacturer. However, it’s important to note that the process varies depending on whether your car is a pre-facelift, facelift, or even a later facelift model. If you’re unsure, I’d highly recommend reaching out to their support team. While they aren’t the quickest to respond, in my experience, they’re very knowledgeable and helpful. Outstanding Customer Support – From a Real Experience When I mentioned that the customer support was excellent, I was speaking from firsthand experience—because my unit was actually faulty. Everything seemed to work fine, except for one crucial function: the rev counter. I reached out to the manufacturer’s support team, and the assistance I received was outstanding. The issue turned out to be a continuity problem on the PCB. Fortunately, I had the tools and knowledge to fix it myself. What really impressed me was that they provided me with an electronics diagram of the PCB section responsible for the rev counter reading. This was a huge help, as it saved me the time of manually tracing every circuit path and analyzing IC datasheets. A bit of background—years ago, I worked as an electronics engineer specializing in component-level diagnostics and repairs. So, with the right information in hand, I was able to resolve the issue myself. Since then, the cluster has been running flawlessly, and I’ve been absolutely loving it. More recently, I reached out to customer support again, this time to explore displaying additional sensor data on the cluster. Once again, they were incredibly helpful. They provided guidance on enabling support for an aftermarket ECU and even hinted at ways to achieve my goal. This is what I call good customer support. While they aren’t the fastest at responding to emails, every time I’ve reached out, I’ve always received the answers I needed. While testing the reverse camera function on the ID4 cluster, I also took the opportunity to check the video feed to the Pioneer head unit I had installed in the center screen. Everything worked seamlessly, confirming that both systems were fully functional and integrated as expected. A Favorite Upgrade That Blends Modern with Classic This upgrade has truly become one of my favorites. It brings my car much closer to looking like a 2020 model rather than one from the early 2000s, all while preserving its heritage and original design theme. The perfect balance of modern technology and classic appeal! Coming up next: I’ll be sharing my journey of hunting down rare, discontinued 20th Anniversary parts—a true treasure hunt for any enthusiast. Stay tuned UPDATE!! ID4Motions is no longer selling the cluster and it has downscaled the operations therefore if you manage to get your hands on one you will have to be your own technical support.
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Honda S2000 build series - Part 7 Bodywork and painting
Body work and paint: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey The Time Has Come: The Final Touch – The Paint Job No matter what happens, one thing is certain—everyone's first impression of the car will be shaped by its paint job. I have a little confession to make: this isn't my first attempt at respraying a car. Two years before starting work on the Honda, I tried a similar restoration—albeit on a smaller scale and with less expense. I might write about that build at some point, but for now, let’s just say it was a valuable learning experience. My first project was my old 2005 Audi A6, powered by a 3.2L V6 and equipped with Quattro all-wheel drive. It’s a fantastic car to drive, and being an estate, it’s incredibly practical. However, it was starting to look a bit tired, and I wasn’t a fan of its original color. Long story short, I stripped the car down, restored it, and repainted it in the same blue offered on the 2020 RS6. The result wasn’t too bad, considering I had chosen a large car to start with and tackled a metallic paint job—one of the trickier finishes to get right. Improving My Painting Skills Before diving into painting the Honda, I took a step back to refine my skills. From my first attempt, I learned that while I could achieve a decent finish on simpler parts like bumpers, the overall standard wasn’t quite what I would call “show car” quality. To improve, I spent countless hours watching car painting tutorials. The three YouTube channels that helped me the most were: The Gunman Paint Society Tony’s Refinishing Each channel offered valuable insights, and I’ll break down what I took away from each of them. The Gunman – Spray Gun Selection and Techniques The Gunman, an Australian YouTuber, provides excellent content on spray gun and material reviews, as well as demonstrations on how to use them effectively. Thanks to his videos, I chose my first proper spray gun—the Iwata W400 Bell aria with a 1.3mm nozzle for base and clear coats. To make it more versatile, I also purchased an additional 1.8mm nozzle for high-build primer, which I used to spray the entire Audi. Based on his recommendations, I also picked up a mini spray gun—ANI R150 with a 0.5mm nozzle—perfect for smaller parts and touch-ups. Paint Society – The Importance of Prep Work Paint Society, an American channel, reinforced one of the most critical aspects of painting: prep work. Through Brian’s tutorials, I learned that achieving a flawless base before applying color and clear coat is just as important—if not more—than the actual painting process. Any imperfections left in the prep stage—scratches, dimples, or uneven surfaces—will show through in the final finish. Tony’s Refinishing – Hands-On Training Tony’s Refinishing, a UK-based YouTube channel, became the most valuable resource for me. He covers the entire painting process, from prep work and painting to the finishing touches like polishing for a glass-like finish. Beyond his videos, what set Tony apart was his in-person training sessions. He was incredibly accommodating, tailoring the workshop specifically to my needs. I won’t disclose the exact price, but it was very reasonable, especially considering he dedicated an entire weekend day to teaching me. The training was hands-on: I practiced with my own Iwata W400 Bellaria and even had the opportunity to use a Fuji MP-V8, a superior spray gun. Tony also guided me on selecting the right materials to achieve the best finish under my specific conditions. By the end of the day, I was so impressed with the Fuji spray gun that I ended up buying one! I hope Tony received some kickback from my purchase—he certainly deserved it. Beyond the guns I mentioned, I also use Sealy spray guns (1.4mm and 2.0mm nozzles) for polyurethane paints, bed liners, and upholstery dye. These jobs don’t require a fine finish, and I prefer not to run such materials through my higher-end guns. Preparing for the Paintwork Before any painting could begin, I had to finalize the preparation by addressing the bodywork, fixing all imperfections, and setting up a proper painting environment. I divided the garage into two distinct areas: Preparation and paint mixing area Spray painting area Since it's springtime and temperatures are relatively stable around 20°C, I took additional precautions based on past experience—placing four fly traps to minimize the risk of contaminants in the paintwork. Separating the workspace wasn't just about preventing overspray from covering everything in the garage. More importantly, it helped ensure that the painting area remained as clean and dust-free as possible. To further reduce airborne dust, I kept the floor wet, preventing any particles from becoming airborne and settling on the fresh paint. However, maintaining a wet floor also meant I had to carefully monitor both humidity and temperature throughout the process to avoid any unintended effects on the paint application. The shell is masked up I was really pleased with the final coat—it looked just like glass, with no runs, just perfect. That was, of course, until it fully cured. Then, I started to notice some orange peel. However, this wasn’t a major issue. I had intentionally applied the second pass of clear coat relatively thick, allowing enough material for wet sanding and polishing to achieve the desired glass-like finish. This was also a significant moment—the point where I could finally fit the wheels. With everything in place, the car was ready to be rolled out of the garage under its own power for the first time since the build began. Once the car cleared the garage, I was finally able to start working on the remaining panels. Given my limited space, I decided to spray a maximum of two panels at a time. While I knew this approach wasn’t the most economical, as it required repeatedly setting up the spray booth and cleaning the spray gun multiple times, it did have a significant advantage—it minimized potential issues to just one or two panels at a time, making corrections much easier. Preparing the Panels The first step was fixing dents and stone chips using the minimum amount of filler necessary to ensure a smooth finish. One of the biggest modifications was the front bumper. Originally, it had holes for the headlight washers, but since they are not a legal requirement for vehicles manufactured before 2009 (as confirmed by MOT technicians), I decided to smooth out the bumper for a cleaner JDM-inspired look. To achieve a perfectly smooth surface, I used a dual-action (DA) orbital sander along with sanding blocks for more precision. At this stage, I sanded the panels with 180-grit sandpaper. This not only smoothed out imperfections but also provided a good adhesion surface (or "key") for the high-build primer. For plastic parts such as the bumper, I used a flexible filler, which has slightly more elasticity than standard body filler used on metal panels. This helps prevent cracking or separation over time due to the natural flexing of plastic components. To ensure corrosion protection, I applied epoxy primer as a direct-to-metal primer on all metal panels. According to the datasheet, I had a window of about a day to cover the epoxy primer with high-build primer to maintain proper adhesion. Once the high-build primer dried, I applied a guide coat and used a variety of sanding blocks to carefully identify and correct any remaining imperfections. This stage involved progressive sanding, finishing with 500-grit sandpaper. While the next seal coat would typically hide imperfections up to 400-grit or even 320-grit, I chose to go the extra step to ensure an ultra-smooth surface while still maintaining enough roughness for proper adhesion of the next coat. Once all the panels were ready, it was time for the black fine primer—also known as a sealer in the U.S. Since the high-build primer was white, jumping straight to black paint could risk uneven coverage, with areas where the base coat might not fully conceal the underlying primer. By applying this black fine primer, I ensured uniform coverage and a consistent base for the final color. Additionally, using a sealer helps with paint adhesion, reduces the number of base coat layers needed, and improves the overall durability and finish of the paint job. Before doing the outside of all panels I did the insides first. At this stage, the results don’t look particularly great yet. With all panels done and in place, the car is now ready for the clear coat cutting and polishing stage. Fortunately, the white spots and impurities visible in the picture are just dust particles sitting on the dry clear coat, not actual defects within the clear coat itself. This means the surface remains smooth and free of embedded contaminants, making the cutting and polishing process much more straightforward. Now, it's all about refining the finish to achieve that deep, mirror-like gloss. The thick clear coat is providing plenty of room to level the finish, allowing me to carefully sand and polish without worrying about burning through the layers. This extra thickness ensures I can eliminate any orange peel or minor imperfections, ultimately achieving a smooth, glass-like surface with a deep, reflective shine. The cutting and polishing process is going well, and I’m finally starting to see the perfectly flat, mirror-like finish I was aiming for. All the effort in prep work, clear coat application, and careful sanding is now paying off. Once the bodywork was complete, I shifted my focus to the headlights. There are plenty of tutorials available on headlight restoration, but this method is one of the only truly long-lasting solutions. The process begins by sanding the headlights down, starting with 240-grit sandpaper and gradually working up to 1000-grit—but no finer than that. Going beyond 1000-grit can make the surface too smooth for the clear coat to properly adhere, leading to premature peeling within a year or two. I learned this the hard way years ago when I sanded up to 3000-grit, only to watch the clear coat start peeling not long after. By keeping the final sanding at 1000-grit, the surface retains just enough texture for the clear coat to bond effectively, ensuring long-term durability and a factory-quality finish. After applying the clear coat, the headlights now look just like new—if not better. A bit of cutting and polishing further refines the finish, bringing out even more clarity and shine. The result is better than new, with a deep, crystal-clear look that perfectly complements the freshly painted bodywork. I really liked these tail lights, and since they are road legal in the UK, the decision to go with them was an easy one. However, there was an ordering mishap—I had originally ordered clear tail lights, but I received tinted ones instead. The store admitted that the mistake was on their end, but we quickly ran into a complication. Thanks to Brexit, I had already paid VAT, import taxes, and clearance fees. Returning the lights to Europe meant I would have to figure out how to claim back those costs, which was far from straightforward. After discussing the situation with the shop, we reached an agreement: I would try to sell the incorrect set locally, and they would offer some compensation for their mistake. Fortunately, I got extremely lucky and managed to sell the tinted set on Facebook Marketplace within a day of listing them. With that sorted, I went ahead and ordered another set, this time receiving the correct version. In the end, I didn’t lose any money, and everything worked out just fine. And here it is—the final result. For an amateur paint job, I couldn’t be happier. Every step, from bodywork prep to painting, cutting, and polishing, has come together beautifully. The finish is smooth, glossy, and reflective, exactly what I was aiming for. Considering all the effort and learning that went into this project, seeing the car in its fresh, showroom-worthy state makes it all worth it! There’s still some work left to do, and in the next episode, I’ll be focusing on restoring the seats and reinstalling the interior. With the exterior now looking better than ever, it’s time to bring the inside of the car up to the same standard. Stay tuned for the next stage of the build!
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Honda S2000 build series - Part 6 Big Brake Kit and suspension
Big Brake Kit and suspension: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey One of the Achilles' heels of this otherwise very capable platform is the brakes. They simply don’t do much, and even with a decent set of pads, they start to fade. The braking performance becomes unpredictable—every time you step on the pedal, it feels like you can’t be sure how much braking force you actually have. Maybe that’s just my driving style, but even for heavy-footed drivers like me, this can definitely be improved. I didn’t want to go for a full-on specialist braking kit like StopTech, and it wasn’t just about the price. I wanted something that looked as if Honda could have made it themselves, staying true to the OEM+ spirit of this build. Several companies offer Brembo 4-pot conversion kits, and I ultimately chose FreakyParts for two reasons. First, they seem to specialize in these kits, and second, it was Black Friday, which meant a 10% discount, saving me nearly £100 off the £1k total, including discs and pads. Another reason I went with Brembo is that, unlike specialist racing brake calipers, these come from a standard road car—in this case, the Renault Megane RS3. This means they have weatherproof rubber seals between the pistons and the calipers, reducing maintenance and preventing debris buildup. I understand that rubber dust seals aren’t ideal for a hardcore track car, but if I ever hit the track, it won’t be to set lap records or compete—just for fun. Even in comparison, the brakes already look so much bigger—a massive improvement. Not only do the Brembo calipers use larger brake pads, but the kit also includes larger brake discs. The original discs are 300mm x 25mm, whereas the kit comes with discs from a Nissan Murano II 3.5. To make them fit, the center bore is machined to match the 70mm Honda wheel hub bore. And yes, these discs are significantly heavier than the originals—but that’s the price you pay for better stopping power. Test-Fitting the Calipers Before installing everything on the car, I wanted to test-fit the calipers onto the wheel knuckle. It’s much safer to check how everything comes together now, rather than struggling with it when everything is already mounted. Having more space to work with makes the process much easier. Attention to Detail – Matching the Red I was also particular about matching the shade of red with the Brembo calipers. Even though they won’t be right next to each other once installed, I wanted to get that fine detail just right. Rear Caliper Refresh I’ve replaced almost all components on the rear calipers, making them look and perform just like new. They’re now connected to brand-new handbrake cables, ensuring everything functions perfectly. Suspension Choice – Öhlins Coilovers I hinted earlier that my coilovers of choice were Öhlins—and yes, they’re not the cheapest option for the S2000. However, Tegiwa had a 15% summer sale, bringing the price down to around £1,900 for the full kit, including springs—not a bad deal at all. Initially, I considered Skunk2 coilovers, as they were about £500 cheaper. However, after doing some internet research, I came across several complaints. Since I already knew a few people running Öhlins who were very happy with their choice, I decided to cross Skunk2 off my list and go with proven quality instead. In this picture, the old steering rod ends are still visible. However, they have since been replaced with HardRace OE-style arms and ends, ensuring better durability and performance. Brake Line Upgrade & Spacer Fitment To connect the brake calipers to the solid brake lines, I opted for Bridgestone black braided hoses. I chose black to keep them low-profile, making them more of an invisible feature rather than something that stands out. Unfortunately, the front wheel hubs required 20mm spacers. Unlike the rear, where I was happy to fit extended studs for the 15mm spacers, 20mm was too much for that style. Instead, I went with H&R bolt-on spacers. I really like the first edition facelift wheels, and I didn’t want to swap them for aftermarket wheels just to make them compatible with the big brake kit. Once everything was fitted and connected, it was time to fill the system with Motul 660 brake fluid, bleed out any air, and check that all fixed lines and unions were properly sealed. Since the car is still lifted—and will be for a while—this also provides a great opportunity to monitor for any slow leaks that might appear over the coming days and weeks. Here’s how the brake calipers look with the facelift V1 wheels—a perfect fit that maintains the OEM+ aesthetic while accommodating the big brake kit. This is starting to look more and more promising—almost time to fire up the engine for the first time! ?? Suspension Components Summary Here’s a breakdown of the suspension components installed: Bushings: All bushes, except for the front lower rear compliant bush (which is a Mugen rubber bush), have been replaced with purple PowerFlex poly bushes. Yes, I’m aware they’ll need to be stripped down, cleaned, and re-greased every few years, but with proper maintenance, they should last a very long time. Rear Toe Control Arms: JS Racing adjustable arms to help fix the bump steer issue when hitting potholes or uneven surfaces. Ball Joints: New rear ball joints for the rear wheel knuckles, as well as new front wheel knuckle ball joints. Chassis Reinforcement: JS Racing front strut bar – aiming to reduce chassis twisting momentum in corners. Spoon reinforcement bar on the transmission tunnel for added rigidity. Hardware: New bolts, nuts, and caster components, with some refurbished parts where possible. Next Up: Bodywork Now comes the most stressful part of the build—the bodywork. This is where keeping eye temperature, timing, and attention to detail will be tested to the limit.
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Honda S2000 build series - Part 5 Engine and drive train
Engine installation with the drivetrain: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey Installing the engine will be fun—well, this is meant with a healthy dose of sarcasm. I knew I didn’t want to be hoisting the engine in from the top and then reconnecting the gearbox, so I came up with a new plan: place the engine on the front subframe, attach the gearbox, and slide the entire assembly in from the bottom. This meant I had to lift the shell that little bit more. Before I could attach the gearbox, it was time to install the clutch. First things first—installing the new flywheel. Although the previous flywheel had only covered less than 20k miles, I opted for a new one. After all, this is a job I don’t want to do again for a very, very long time. Proper alignment was crucial. I torqued the new flywheel bolts according to the Honda workshop manual, which also recommends not reusing the old bolts. I modified a 17mm, 12-sided socket to sit flush with the base of the bolt. This provided maximum grip and prevented the bolt head from rounding off. Actually, I modified that 17mm socket much earlier, as I needed it to remove the old flywheel. That had to be done because I was also replacing the crank seal. Before I was ready to install the clutch and join the gearbox with the engine, I wanted to ensure the flywheel sat perfectly in place. To verify this, I used a spring-loaded gauge, mounting one end to the crankcase and the other to inspect for any deviations in measurement while manually turning the crankshaft. I didn’t really document the clutch replacement—it’s a shame. However, if you’ve ever watched the "LHT Performance" channel on YouTube, they provide some great tips and detailed videos on what to do, what not to do, and which parts are recommended for replacement, even if the manual doesn’t mention them. For the list of parts, I started with an original Honda clutch kit and original Honda release bearing. I also replaced the clutch release bearing guide, input shaft seal in the gearbox, clutch release fork, clutch slave cylinder, and the rubber cover for the clutch slave cylinder. Special care was taken when applying Honda Urea grease. And if you're wondering what happened to the new cover—well, as I worked around the engine, lifting it with a crane and sliding it under the car, I decided to put the old one on for now. Before the engine was lifted into place, I also added rigid collars to the subframe from Delta Lima Engineering, a company based in the Netherlands. While I have plenty of Spoon parts on this car, the rigid collars from Delta Lima were much more affordable. Additionally, I didn’t want to risk buying low-grade fakes at full price on eBay. As mentioned earlier, I found that lifting the car shell a bit higher and sliding the engine underneath was much safer and easier. Although the poor car creeper somehow managed to withstand the full weight of the engine and gearbox, it was borderline sketchy. But hey, this is DIY, is it not? As one wise man once said (Bear Grylls) Improvise, Adapt, Overcome! Once the engine was in place, I used an engine crane to very slowly and carefully lift it until I was able to secure the subframe with a set of new bolts. Although I had restored the old set, I later changed my mind and decided to get new ones. Besides, the Honda manual recommends using a new set anyway. Getting the subframe positioned correctly and leveled is more critical than it seems. The main reason is that if the subframe bolts are not threaded in perfectly, they can damage the threads in the chassis, leading to a cross-threading nightmare— and fixing that is a whole new level of hell. I started by carefully locating the threads and threading the bolts in by hand with a bit of anti-seize, ensuring they were fully engaged and going in smoothly. Once I could no longer tighten them by hand, I switched to a smaller ratchet, making sure each turn had no resistance. At no point did I use electric or pneumatic tools to tighten these bolts. Not only is it important to keep the bolts straight, but it’s also crucial to tighten them in a cross pattern while checking the frame alignment as it is slowly raised toward the car body. This is where the rigid collars help. The subframe has oversized holes for easier installation at the factory, and the main purpose of the collars is to fill those gaps between the subframe and the car body, reducing movement during cornering—at least in theory. Before lifting the engine, I also attached the exhaust manifold. Instead of using the original studs and nuts, I switched to titanium ones because I didn’t like how the original ones would look after a couple of years. Yes, many of my replacements and upgrades are purely for cosmetic reasons rather than performance or handling improvements. Just above the exhaust manifold is the JS Racing heat shield, which has a cutout for the engine torque damper. Replacing the original AC condenser, as the old one was in a bit of a sorry state. It was still functional; however, it was already missing a lot of fins, and the ones that remained were neither particularly straight nor optimal for airflow. Also not making a return was the original radiator—instead, I went with a Koyorad. This radiator purchase also led to some unexpected additional purchases. When I bought the radiator, I also ordered the matching Koyorad radiator cap. However, when the radiator arrived, the cap was missing. These things happen, so I called the company I ordered from. The lady on the phone apologized for the mishap and immediately offered to send the cap. She must have had some kind of spider sense because, out of nowhere, she mentioned a JS Racing strut bar brace at a discounted price. The offer was too good to refuse, so yeah… more money gone. That said, I have to admit, the strut bar looks great. It adds a nice shine to the engine bay, and the gold ends perfectly match the Öhlins suspension—but more on those in the next chapter. I don’t mind when a company makes mistakes; these things happen. What truly separates good companies from bad ones is how they handle issues when they arise. And I have to say, throughout this build, I’ve encountered a few hiccups with my orders, but every company I’ve dealt with has had exceptional customer service. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to find a JS Racing engine torque damper. Luckily, though, Tegiwa offers their own version, which appears to be made to match the JS Racing fixings. To complete the engine installation, I reconnected all hoses and wiring, connected the engine loom back to the ECU, and reattached it to the fuse box and battery terminal. On the exhaust side, I gave the catalytic converter and its cover a fresh coat of UHT paint. However, I made a fatal mistake—one that I would only discover later. Instead of connecting the O₂ sensors to the ECU, I somehow managed to connect the ECU to itself, which ended up burning out one of the transistors inside. Luckily, when I visited TGM in Fleet, Tom had a few ECUs in stock. He kindly offered to let me borrow one so I could check the component part number and order the transistor from an electronics supplier like Farnell or RS. In the end, I decided to just buy it from him instead. I would have needed to open the ECU, and if he later sold it to someone and it didn’t work, I wouldn’t want him to be suspicious of me. Differential Rebuild & Upgrade With the engine now in place, let's focus on the rest of the drivetrain. I’ve watched many YouTube videos on differential rebuilds, and one channel really stood out—PuddyModRacing. His videos provide an in-depth look at the rebuild process and how to fix the inherent weakness of the crush pinion nut, which is supposed to maintain proper backlash in the differential gears. I began by taking the differential apart, cleaning the casing, repainting it, and sourcing all the necessary gaskets, seals, bearings, JS Racing diff rigid collars, and spacers. I also decided to go for a slight upgrade—changing the gear ratio from the original 4.1 to 4.44. However, I quickly learned that setting up a differential properly is a highly specialized job. Luckily, within our small community, we had a contact in London who specializes in Hondas and has been rebuilding differentials for quite some time. Instead of relying on trial and error, I packed the diff into the boot and went to see him. He was incredibly helpful, keeping me updated throughout the process. If he discovered an issue, he would check with me first—either so I could supply the necessary parts or so he could fix it, though it would cost a bit more. Absolute legend. Driveshaft Overhaul With the differential done, next up were the driveshafts. I had previously purchased a refurbished driveshaft from Ballade Sports, and while some of their products are great, others can be a bit hit or miss. Unfortunately, in my case, the driveshaft was a miss—at least based on my experience. While it didn’t fail mechanically, after just 3–4 years, the cv boot developed numerous cracks and splits—something I hadn’t seen on other driveshafts I’d owned before, even much older ones. Additionally, the grease inside the inner cap wasn’t the original Honda grease. I’m no expert, but it looked more like the type used for the outer CV joint, which wasn’t ideal. To fix this, I decided to replace both the inner and outer CV boots with new ones, along with the recommended Honda grease. I stripped them down, cleaned everything, and reassembled them. The process itself isn’t too difficult—the key part is keeping track of the bearings and their exact positioning in relation to the inner cap, ensuring they don’t get mixed up during reassembly. Unexpected Setback with Wheel Bearings A surprise awaited me when it was time to press the new wheel bearings into the knuckles and install the wheel hubs. I should have inspected them earlier, but I failed to notice the damage—and it was no good. I had given the wheel knuckles to someone (I’m not going to name and shame) to press out the old bearings, as he had a press. He even offered to remove the remaining bearing part from the wheel hub. However, when I got them back, they were badly pitted, looking as if they had been hit with a hammer, and even had visible cuts on them. When it came time for installation, the guy handling my differential rebuild sent me pictures showing just how bad they were. He advised me to get new ones, and he had no reason to lie—after all, I was sourcing them myself. Unfortunately, this led to an unexpected delay as I had to wait for new wheel knuckles to arrive from Japan. Since I’m installing spacers, I also had to replace the wheel studs with slightly longer ones on the rear axle to properly fit the 15mm slip-on H&R spacers. Another Task Complete With this all sorted, it's time to move on. Next up: suspension and Big Brake Kit installation.
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