Honda S2000 Build Series
Honda S2000 build series - Part 9 ID4 Cluster
ID4 Cluster: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey Ever since the first images of this digital cluster started circulating online, I was immediately fascinated. It looked incredible, and I could only imagine how cool it would be to have one. However, the hefty price tag always held me back. As much as I admired it, I just couldn’t justify the cost. But then, luck was on my side. One day, while scrolling through Facebook, I stumbled upon a listing that seemed too good to be true—an unused, never-installed ID4 cluster for an unbelievable price of £650. I didn’t even think about lowballing the seller; it was already a fair deal, and I wasn’t about to miss this opportunity. The only catch? It was quite a journey to go and collect it. But that didn’t deter me. The seller had originally intended to install it in his own car, but before he got around to it, rust had taken over, leaving the vehicle beyond repair. With no use for the cluster anymore, he decided to sell it. As a kind gesture, he asked if I could send him a short video of the cluster powering up once I had it installed. Of course, I was happy to oblige. An Unexpected Bonus: The Camera Module To my surprise, the cluster even had the camera module enabled—an optional extra that I hadn’t anticipated. While this might be redundant for me since I’ve already wired my reverse camera to the center screen (which automatically switches to the camera view when I engage reverse gear), it was still a nice bonus. Unfortunately, the ID4 cluster doesn’t have an automatic trigger for the camera, meaning I have to activate it manually by pressing a key on the control pad. Not a huge inconvenience, but something worth noting for anyone considering this upgrade. Installation: A Simple Process The installation process is relatively straightforward, though it does involve a bit of cutting. Fortunately, the area that needs to be trimmed is completely hidden, even if I were to reinstall the original cluster in the future. That said, there was still a moment of hesitation. After all, I had just unboxed a brand-new dashboard, and within minutes, I was already cutting into it. It’s always a little nerve-wracking making permanent modifications to something fresh out of the box, but in the end, it was a necessary step to make the ID4 cluster fit perfectly. Not Quite Plug-and-Play: A Small But Necessary Modification I have to say it—installing the ID4 cluster isn’t exactly plug-and-play. There’s a small additional step required, but nothing too difficult. The main modification involves rerouting a single wire to get the temperature reading from the ECU. Thankfully, this step is well-documented by the cluster manufacturer. However, it’s important to note that the process varies depending on whether your car is a pre-facelift, facelift, or even a later facelift model. If you’re unsure, I’d highly recommend reaching out to their support team. While they aren’t the quickest to respond, in my experience, they’re very knowledgeable and helpful. Outstanding Customer Support – From a Real Experience When I mentioned that the customer support was excellent, I was speaking from firsthand experience—because my unit was actually faulty. Everything seemed to work fine, except for one crucial function: the rev counter. I reached out to the manufacturer’s support team, and the assistance I received was outstanding. The issue turned out to be a continuity problem on the PCB. Fortunately, I had the tools and knowledge to fix it myself. What really impressed me was that they provided me with an electronics diagram of the PCB section responsible for the rev counter reading. This was a huge help, as it saved me the time of manually tracing every circuit path and analyzing IC datasheets. A bit of background—years ago, I worked as an electronics engineer specializing in component-level diagnostics and repairs. So, with the right information in hand, I was able to resolve the issue myself. Since then, the cluster has been running flawlessly, and I’ve been absolutely loving it. More recently, I reached out to customer support again, this time to explore displaying additional sensor data on the cluster. Once again, they were incredibly helpful. They provided guidance on enabling support for an aftermarket ECU and even hinted at ways to achieve my goal. This is what I call good customer support. While they aren’t the fastest at responding to emails, every time I’ve reached out, I’ve always received the answers I needed. While testing the reverse camera function on the ID4 cluster, I also took the opportunity to check the video feed to the Pioneer head unit I had installed in the center screen. Everything worked seamlessly, confirming that both systems were fully functional and integrated as expected. A Favorite Upgrade That Blends Modern with Classic This upgrade has truly become one of my favorites. It brings my car much closer to looking like a 2020 model rather than one from the early 2000s, all while preserving its heritage and original design theme. The perfect balance of modern technology and classic appeal! Coming up next: I’ll be sharing my journey of hunting down rare, discontinued 20th Anniversary parts—a true treasure hunt for any enthusiast. Stay tuned UPDATE!! ID4Motions is no longer selling the cluster and it has downscaled the operations therefore if you manage to get your hands on one you will have to be your own technical support.
Learn more
Honda S2000 build series - Part 8 Interior
Interior Fitting: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey The interior looked exactly like you’d expect from a 20+ year-old car—worn seats with scratches and cracks, a collapsed side bolster on the driver’s seat, and a carpet that had seen better days. Since this is an early-model S2000, it originally had a carpeted transmission tunnel, but I had some changes in mind. A No-Compromise Build From the start, this build was meant to be a no-compromise project—whatever I wanted, I would source and install. Since the carpet was in rough shape, and OEM replacements weren’t available at the time (this was before a seller in the U.S. started offering reproduction carpets in a Facebook group), I managed to find a good-condition replacement on eBay. Upgrades and Facelift Parts A few other interior upgrades were also on the list:✅ Facelift center console for a cleaner, more modern look✅ Genuine Honda S2000 titanium gear knob for a factory-fresh feel✅ Upgraded footrest—the early models came with a black plastic footrest, but I was lucky enough to source a brand-new metal version Seat Restoration: A Test for the Future The seats were in particularly rough shape, and my long-term plan is to have them professionally reupholstered in a two-tone leather combination. However, before committing, I decided to experiment with the color scheme to see if I truly liked it before going all-in on the reupholstery. This marks the next step in transforming the interior of my S2000, bringing it up to the same high standard as the exterior restoration. Stay tuned for more updates! Restoring the Worn Leather Seats After doing some research, I discovered that I could use a leather repair kit along with specialist leather dye to restore the seats to a like-new appearance. Fixing the Collapsed Bolster Before starting the filling and repainting process, I first needed to repair the collapsed side bolster. To do this, I used medium-density upholstery foam, cutting it into smaller pieces to rebuild the original shape. Once I had the structure right, I glued them in place to ensure a firm and lasting fix. Leather Repainting Process The painting process involved several key steps:1️⃣ Degreasing & Thorough Cleaning – Ensuring the leather was completely free of dirt and oils for proper adhesion.2️⃣ Applying Several Coats of Leather Paint – This took some time, especially since the seats had multiple colors, requiring careful masking. Luckily, masking tape worked well to keep the colors separated.3️⃣ Final Protective Sealer Coat – This added durability and protection to maintain the finish over time. Final Thoughts In the end, I was relatively impressed with the results. While this was a temporary solution before a full professional reupholstery job, it brought the seats back to life and gave me a solid idea of how the final color scheme would look. Another step closer to completing the interior restoration! ?✨ Reviving the Boot Carpet The boot carpet was looking a bit tired and worn, so I decided to refresh it using black fabric dye to restore its like-new appearance. Applying the dye was a simple yet effective solution, bringing back the deep black color and making the carpet look clean and refreshed—a small but noticeable improvement in the overall interior restoration. Dashboard Test Fitting & Cable Management For the initial test fitting, I used the old dashboard to avoid any risk of accidentally damaging the new one. This allowed me to check alignment, mounting points, and overall fitment without worrying about potential scratches or marks. At this stage, I also focused on tidying up the wiring. Cable management was a priority—everything needed to be hidden and neatly routed, ensuring a clean OEM-style appearance with no visible signs of modifications. Installing Trackers for Security Since the car was still disassembled, it was the perfect opportunity to install tracking devices. This way, they could be strategically hidden and completely inaccessible—any attempt to remove them would require disassembling large sections of the car. Security and stealth, all in one step. Installing the Facelift Center Console & Relocating the Alarm LED With the dashboard in place, it was time to install the facelift center console. This upgrade not only modernizes the interior but also improves the overall fit and finish. During the installation, I noticed an alarm LED awkwardly fitted right in the center of the trim above the defroster button. I have no idea why it was placed there, but it looked like someone had simply drilled a hole and called it a day—far from a clean factory look. To fix this, I repaired the trim piece and relocated the LED wiring, tucking it neatly inside the interior light for a cleaner, OEM-style integration. Now, the center console looks flawless, without any unnecessary modifications ruining its aesthetics. This relocation meant that there were no unsightly LEDs visible, maintaining a clean and factory-like appearance. However, the LED indicator is still perfectly visible when the immobilizer is active, ensuring full functionality without compromising aesthetics. While working on the lighting, I also upgraded the interior lights to white LEDs. The original yellow halogen bulbs looked a bit dated, and the crisp white LED lighting gives the cabin a modern and fresh look. The final result looks amazing—I couldn’t have asked for more. Every detail, from the facelift center console to the hidden immobilizer LED and modern LED lighting, has come together perfectly, giving the interior a clean, refined, and updated look. Another step closer to completing this no-compromise build! ?✨ The metal footrest was another great addition, adding a sportier and more premium look to the interior. It not only enhances the aesthetics but also provides a more durable and functional upgrade over the original plastic version. A small detail, but one that makes a big difference in the overall feel of the cabin! Finishing Touches: Center Console Wrap & Gear Shifter Upgrade For the final touch, I decided to wrap the center console trim pieces with a black brushed aluminum-look vinyl. This gave the interior a sleek, modern, and premium feel, complementing the other upgrades perfectly. To complete the look, I also fitted a new leather cover for the gear shifter, enhancing both comfort and aesthetics. These small details tie everything together, making the interior feel refined and high-quality—a perfect match for the rest of the build! Final Checks & Preparing for the Road The car is now almost complete—just a few finishing touches left. I’m going through a final double-check of all brake and suspension bolts, ensuring everything is torqued to spec. After that, it’s time for a full system test to make sure everything functions flawlessly before heading back on the road for its MOT test. A Tight Deadline Time is ticking, and there’s an actual deadline to meet. I’ve already booked a new soft-top installation with Jack Smith in Swansea, South Wales, and given how busy he is, I wouldn’t be able to get another slot anytime soon if I miss this one. A Dedicated Chapter for the Digital Cluster Throughout this build, there have been glimpses of the ID4Motion digital cluster, but instead of squeezing it into this section, I’ve decided to dedicate an entire chapter to it. It deserves detailed coverage, as it’s a significant upgrade that completely transforms the driving experience.
Learn more
Honda S2000 build series - Part 7 Bodywork and painting
Body work and paint: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey The Time Has Come: The Final Touch – The Paint Job No matter what happens, one thing is certain—everyone's first impression of the car will be shaped by its paint job. I have a little confession to make: this isn't my first attempt at respraying a car. Two years before starting work on the Honda, I tried a similar restoration—albeit on a smaller scale and with less expense. I might write about that build at some point, but for now, let’s just say it was a valuable learning experience. My first project was my old 2005 Audi A6, powered by a 3.2L V6 and equipped with Quattro all-wheel drive. It’s a fantastic car to drive, and being an estate, it’s incredibly practical. However, it was starting to look a bit tired, and I wasn’t a fan of its original color. Long story short, I stripped the car down, restored it, and repainted it in the same blue offered on the 2020 RS6. The result wasn’t too bad, considering I had chosen a large car to start with and tackled a metallic paint job—one of the trickier finishes to get right. Improving My Painting Skills Before diving into painting the Honda, I took a step back to refine my skills. From my first attempt, I learned that while I could achieve a decent finish on simpler parts like bumpers, the overall standard wasn’t quite what I would call “show car” quality. To improve, I spent countless hours watching car painting tutorials. The three YouTube channels that helped me the most were: The Gunman Paint Society Tony’s Refinishing Each channel offered valuable insights, and I’ll break down what I took away from each of them. The Gunman – Spray Gun Selection and Techniques The Gunman, an Australian YouTuber, provides excellent content on spray gun and material reviews, as well as demonstrations on how to use them effectively. Thanks to his videos, I chose my first proper spray gun—the Iwata W400 Bell aria with a 1.3mm nozzle for base and clear coats. To make it more versatile, I also purchased an additional 1.8mm nozzle for high-build primer, which I used to spray the entire Audi. Based on his recommendations, I also picked up a mini spray gun—ANI R150 with a 0.5mm nozzle—perfect for smaller parts and touch-ups. Paint Society – The Importance of Prep Work Paint Society, an American channel, reinforced one of the most critical aspects of painting: prep work. Through Brian’s tutorials, I learned that achieving a flawless base before applying color and clear coat is just as important—if not more—than the actual painting process. Any imperfections left in the prep stage—scratches, dimples, or uneven surfaces—will show through in the final finish. Tony’s Refinishing – Hands-On Training Tony’s Refinishing, a UK-based YouTube channel, became the most valuable resource for me. He covers the entire painting process, from prep work and painting to the finishing touches like polishing for a glass-like finish. Beyond his videos, what set Tony apart was his in-person training sessions. He was incredibly accommodating, tailoring the workshop specifically to my needs. I won’t disclose the exact price, but it was very reasonable, especially considering he dedicated an entire weekend day to teaching me. The training was hands-on: I practiced with my own Iwata W400 Bellaria and even had the opportunity to use a Fuji MP-V8, a superior spray gun. Tony also guided me on selecting the right materials to achieve the best finish under my specific conditions. By the end of the day, I was so impressed with the Fuji spray gun that I ended up buying one! I hope Tony received some kickback from my purchase—he certainly deserved it. Beyond the guns I mentioned, I also use Sealy spray guns (1.4mm and 2.0mm nozzles) for polyurethane paints, bed liners, and upholstery dye. These jobs don’t require a fine finish, and I prefer not to run such materials through my higher-end guns. Preparing for the Paintwork Before any painting could begin, I had to finalize the preparation by addressing the bodywork, fixing all imperfections, and setting up a proper painting environment. I divided the garage into two distinct areas: Preparation and paint mixing area Spray painting area Since it's springtime and temperatures are relatively stable around 20°C, I took additional precautions based on past experience—placing four fly traps to minimize the risk of contaminants in the paintwork. Separating the workspace wasn't just about preventing overspray from covering everything in the garage. More importantly, it helped ensure that the painting area remained as clean and dust-free as possible. To further reduce airborne dust, I kept the floor wet, preventing any particles from becoming airborne and settling on the fresh paint. However, maintaining a wet floor also meant I had to carefully monitor both humidity and temperature throughout the process to avoid any unintended effects on the paint application. The shell is masked up I was really pleased with the final coat—it looked just like glass, with no runs, just perfect. That was, of course, until it fully cured. Then, I started to notice some orange peel. However, this wasn’t a major issue. I had intentionally applied the second pass of clear coat relatively thick, allowing enough material for wet sanding and polishing to achieve the desired glass-like finish. This was also a significant moment—the point where I could finally fit the wheels. With everything in place, the car was ready to be rolled out of the garage under its own power for the first time since the build began. Once the car cleared the garage, I was finally able to start working on the remaining panels. Given my limited space, I decided to spray a maximum of two panels at a time. While I knew this approach wasn’t the most economical, as it required repeatedly setting up the spray booth and cleaning the spray gun multiple times, it did have a significant advantage—it minimized potential issues to just one or two panels at a time, making corrections much easier. Preparing the Panels The first step was fixing dents and stone chips using the minimum amount of filler necessary to ensure a smooth finish. One of the biggest modifications was the front bumper. Originally, it had holes for the headlight washers, but since they are not a legal requirement for vehicles manufactured before 2009 (as confirmed by MOT technicians), I decided to smooth out the bumper for a cleaner JDM-inspired look. To achieve a perfectly smooth surface, I used a dual-action (DA) orbital sander along with sanding blocks for more precision. At this stage, I sanded the panels with 180-grit sandpaper. This not only smoothed out imperfections but also provided a good adhesion surface (or "key") for the high-build primer. For plastic parts such as the bumper, I used a flexible filler, which has slightly more elasticity than standard body filler used on metal panels. This helps prevent cracking or separation over time due to the natural flexing of plastic components. To ensure corrosion protection, I applied epoxy primer as a direct-to-metal primer on all metal panels. According to the datasheet, I had a window of about a day to cover the epoxy primer with high-build primer to maintain proper adhesion. Once the high-build primer dried, I applied a guide coat and used a variety of sanding blocks to carefully identify and correct any remaining imperfections. This stage involved progressive sanding, finishing with 500-grit sandpaper. While the next seal coat would typically hide imperfections up to 400-grit or even 320-grit, I chose to go the extra step to ensure an ultra-smooth surface while still maintaining enough roughness for proper adhesion of the next coat. Once all the panels were ready, it was time for the black fine primer—also known as a sealer in the U.S. Since the high-build primer was white, jumping straight to black paint could risk uneven coverage, with areas where the base coat might not fully conceal the underlying primer. By applying this black fine primer, I ensured uniform coverage and a consistent base for the final color. Additionally, using a sealer helps with paint adhesion, reduces the number of base coat layers needed, and improves the overall durability and finish of the paint job. Before doing the outside of all panels I did the insides first. At this stage, the results don’t look particularly great yet. With all panels done and in place, the car is now ready for the clear coat cutting and polishing stage. Fortunately, the white spots and impurities visible in the picture are just dust particles sitting on the dry clear coat, not actual defects within the clear coat itself. This means the surface remains smooth and free of embedded contaminants, making the cutting and polishing process much more straightforward. Now, it's all about refining the finish to achieve that deep, mirror-like gloss. The thick clear coat is providing plenty of room to level the finish, allowing me to carefully sand and polish without worrying about burning through the layers. This extra thickness ensures I can eliminate any orange peel or minor imperfections, ultimately achieving a smooth, glass-like surface with a deep, reflective shine. The cutting and polishing process is going well, and I’m finally starting to see the perfectly flat, mirror-like finish I was aiming for. All the effort in prep work, clear coat application, and careful sanding is now paying off. Once the bodywork was complete, I shifted my focus to the headlights. There are plenty of tutorials available on headlight restoration, but this method is one of the only truly long-lasting solutions. The process begins by sanding the headlights down, starting with 240-grit sandpaper and gradually working up to 1000-grit—but no finer than that. Going beyond 1000-grit can make the surface too smooth for the clear coat to properly adhere, leading to premature peeling within a year or two. I learned this the hard way years ago when I sanded up to 3000-grit, only to watch the clear coat start peeling not long after. By keeping the final sanding at 1000-grit, the surface retains just enough texture for the clear coat to bond effectively, ensuring long-term durability and a factory-quality finish. After applying the clear coat, the headlights now look just like new—if not better. A bit of cutting and polishing further refines the finish, bringing out even more clarity and shine. The result is better than new, with a deep, crystal-clear look that perfectly complements the freshly painted bodywork. I really liked these tail lights, and since they are road legal in the UK, the decision to go with them was an easy one. However, there was an ordering mishap—I had originally ordered clear tail lights, but I received tinted ones instead. The store admitted that the mistake was on their end, but we quickly ran into a complication. Thanks to Brexit, I had already paid VAT, import taxes, and clearance fees. Returning the lights to Europe meant I would have to figure out how to claim back those costs, which was far from straightforward. After discussing the situation with the shop, we reached an agreement: I would try to sell the incorrect set locally, and they would offer some compensation for their mistake. Fortunately, I got extremely lucky and managed to sell the tinted set on Facebook Marketplace within a day of listing them. With that sorted, I went ahead and ordered another set, this time receiving the correct version. In the end, I didn’t lose any money, and everything worked out just fine. And here it is—the final result. For an amateur paint job, I couldn’t be happier. Every step, from bodywork prep to painting, cutting, and polishing, has come together beautifully. The finish is smooth, glossy, and reflective, exactly what I was aiming for. Considering all the effort and learning that went into this project, seeing the car in its fresh, showroom-worthy state makes it all worth it! There’s still some work left to do, and in the next episode, I’ll be focusing on restoring the seats and reinstalling the interior. With the exterior now looking better than ever, it’s time to bring the inside of the car up to the same standard. Stay tuned for the next stage of the build!
Learn more