Honda S2000 Build Series

Honda S2000 build series - Part 9 ID4 Cluster

  ID4 Cluster: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey Ever since the first images of this digital cluster started circulating online, I was immediately fascinated. It looked incredible, and I could only imagine how cool it would be to have one. However, the hefty price tag always held me back. As much as I admired it, I just couldn’t justify the cost. But then, luck was on my side. One day, while scrolling through Facebook, I stumbled upon a listing that seemed too good to be true—an unused, never-installed ID4 cluster for an unbelievable price of £650. I didn’t even think about lowballing the seller; it was already a fair deal, and I wasn’t about to miss this opportunity. The only catch? It was quite a journey to go and collect it. But that didn’t deter me. The seller had originally intended to install it in his own car, but before he got around to it, rust had taken over, leaving the vehicle beyond repair. With no use for the cluster anymore, he decided to sell it. As a kind gesture, he asked if I could send him a short video of the cluster powering up once I had it installed. Of course, I was happy to oblige. An Unexpected Bonus: The Camera Module To my surprise, the cluster even had the camera module enabled—an optional extra that I hadn’t anticipated. While this might be redundant for me since I’ve already wired my reverse camera to the center screen (which automatically switches to the camera view when I engage reverse gear), it was still a nice bonus. Unfortunately, the ID4 cluster doesn’t have an automatic trigger for the camera, meaning I have to activate it manually by pressing a key on the control pad. Not a huge inconvenience, but something worth noting for anyone considering this upgrade. Installation: A Simple Process The installation process is relatively straightforward, though it does involve a bit of cutting. Fortunately, the area that needs to be trimmed is completely hidden, even if I were to reinstall the original cluster in the future. That said, there was still a moment of hesitation. After all, I had just unboxed a brand-new dashboard, and within minutes, I was already cutting into it. It’s always a little nerve-wracking making permanent modifications to something fresh out of the box, but in the end, it was a necessary step to make the ID4 cluster fit perfectly. Not Quite Plug-and-Play: A Small But Necessary Modification I have to say it—installing the ID4 cluster isn’t exactly plug-and-play. There’s a small additional step required, but nothing too difficult. The main modification involves rerouting a single wire to get the temperature reading from the ECU. Thankfully, this step is well-documented by the cluster manufacturer. However, it’s important to note that the process varies depending on whether your car is a pre-facelift, facelift, or even a later facelift model. If you’re unsure, I’d highly recommend reaching out to their support team. While they aren’t the quickest to respond, in my experience, they’re very knowledgeable and helpful. Outstanding Customer Support – From a Real Experience When I mentioned that the customer support was excellent, I was speaking from firsthand experience—because my unit was actually faulty. Everything seemed to work fine, except for one crucial function: the rev counter. I reached out to the manufacturer’s support team, and the assistance I received was outstanding. The issue turned out to be a continuity problem on the PCB. Fortunately, I had the tools and knowledge to fix it myself. What really impressed me was that they provided me with an electronics diagram of the PCB section responsible for the rev counter reading. This was a huge help, as it saved me the time of manually tracing every circuit path and analyzing IC datasheets. A bit of background—years ago, I worked as an electronics engineer specializing in component-level diagnostics and repairs. So, with the right information in hand, I was able to resolve the issue myself. Since then, the cluster has been running flawlessly, and I’ve been absolutely loving it. More recently, I reached out to customer support again, this time to explore displaying additional sensor data on the cluster. Once again, they were incredibly helpful. They provided guidance on enabling support for an aftermarket ECU and even hinted at ways to achieve my goal. This is what I call good customer support. While they aren’t the fastest at responding to emails, every time I’ve reached out, I’ve always received the answers I needed. While testing the reverse camera function on the ID4 cluster, I also took the opportunity to check the video feed to the Pioneer head unit I had installed in the center screen. Everything worked seamlessly, confirming that both systems were fully functional and integrated as expected. A Favorite Upgrade That Blends Modern with Classic This upgrade has truly become one of my favorites. It brings my car much closer to looking like a 2020 model rather than one from the early 2000s, all while preserving its heritage and original design theme. The perfect balance of modern technology and classic appeal! Coming up next: I’ll be sharing my journey of hunting down rare, discontinued 20th Anniversary parts—a true treasure hunt for any enthusiast. Stay tuned   UPDATE!! ID4Motions is no longer selling the cluster and it has downscaled the operations therefore if you manage to get your hands on one you will have to be your own technical support. 

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Honda S2000 build series - Part 8 Interior

Interior Fitting: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey The interior looked exactly like you’d expect from a 20+ year-old car—worn seats with scratches and cracks, a collapsed side bolster on the driver’s seat, and a carpet that had seen better days. Since this is an early-model S2000, it originally had a carpeted transmission tunnel, but I had some changes in mind. A No-Compromise Build From the start, this build was meant to be a no-compromise project—whatever I wanted, I would source and install. Since the carpet was in rough shape, and OEM replacements weren’t available at the time (this was before a seller in the U.S. started offering reproduction carpets in a Facebook group), I managed to find a good-condition replacement on eBay. Upgrades and Facelift Parts A few other interior upgrades were also on the list:✅ Facelift center console for a cleaner, more modern look✅ Genuine Honda S2000 titanium gear knob for a factory-fresh feel✅ Upgraded footrest—the early models came with a black plastic footrest, but I was lucky enough to source a brand-new metal version Seat Restoration: A Test for the Future The seats were in particularly rough shape, and my long-term plan is to have them professionally reupholstered in a two-tone leather combination. However, before committing, I decided to experiment with the color scheme to see if I truly liked it before going all-in on the reupholstery. This marks the next step in transforming the interior of my S2000, bringing it up to the same high standard as the exterior restoration. Stay tuned for more updates! Restoring the Worn Leather Seats After doing some research, I discovered that I could use a leather repair kit along with specialist leather dye to restore the seats to a like-new appearance. Fixing the Collapsed Bolster Before starting the filling and repainting process, I first needed to repair the collapsed side bolster. To do this, I used medium-density upholstery foam, cutting it into smaller pieces to rebuild the original shape. Once I had the structure right, I glued them in place to ensure a firm and lasting fix. Leather Repainting Process The painting process involved several key steps:1️⃣ Degreasing & Thorough Cleaning – Ensuring the leather was completely free of dirt and oils for proper adhesion.2️⃣ Applying Several Coats of Leather Paint – This took some time, especially since the seats had multiple colors, requiring careful masking. Luckily, masking tape worked well to keep the colors separated.3️⃣ Final Protective Sealer Coat – This added durability and protection to maintain the finish over time. Final Thoughts In the end, I was relatively impressed with the results. While this was a temporary solution before a full professional reupholstery job, it brought the seats back to life and gave me a solid idea of how the final color scheme would look. Another step closer to completing the interior restoration! ?✨ Reviving the Boot Carpet The boot carpet was looking a bit tired and worn, so I decided to refresh it using black fabric dye to restore its like-new appearance. Applying the dye was a simple yet effective solution, bringing back the deep black color and making the carpet look clean and refreshed—a small but noticeable improvement in the overall interior restoration. Dashboard Test Fitting & Cable Management For the initial test fitting, I used the old dashboard to avoid any risk of accidentally damaging the new one. This allowed me to check alignment, mounting points, and overall fitment without worrying about potential scratches or marks. At this stage, I also focused on tidying up the wiring. Cable management was a priority—everything needed to be hidden and neatly routed, ensuring a clean OEM-style appearance with no visible signs of modifications. Installing Trackers for Security Since the car was still disassembled, it was the perfect opportunity to install tracking devices. This way, they could be strategically hidden and completely inaccessible—any attempt to remove them would require disassembling large sections of the car. Security and stealth, all in one step. Installing the Facelift Center Console & Relocating the Alarm LED With the dashboard in place, it was time to install the facelift center console. This upgrade not only modernizes the interior but also improves the overall fit and finish. During the installation, I noticed an alarm LED awkwardly fitted right in the center of the trim above the defroster button. I have no idea why it was placed there, but it looked like someone had simply drilled a hole and called it a day—far from a clean factory look. To fix this, I repaired the trim piece and relocated the LED wiring, tucking it neatly inside the interior light for a cleaner, OEM-style integration. Now, the center console looks flawless, without any unnecessary modifications ruining its aesthetics. This relocation meant that there were no unsightly LEDs visible, maintaining a clean and factory-like appearance. However, the LED indicator is still perfectly visible when the immobilizer is active, ensuring full functionality without compromising aesthetics. While working on the lighting, I also upgraded the interior lights to white LEDs. The original yellow halogen bulbs looked a bit dated, and the crisp white LED lighting gives the cabin a modern and fresh look. The final result looks amazing—I couldn’t have asked for more. Every detail, from the facelift center console to the hidden immobilizer LED and modern LED lighting, has come together perfectly, giving the interior a clean, refined, and updated look. Another step closer to completing this no-compromise build! ?✨ The metal footrest was another great addition, adding a sportier and more premium look to the interior. It not only enhances the aesthetics but also provides a more durable and functional upgrade over the original plastic version. A small detail, but one that makes a big difference in the overall feel of the cabin!  Finishing Touches: Center Console Wrap & Gear Shifter Upgrade For the final touch, I decided to wrap the center console trim pieces with a black brushed aluminum-look vinyl. This gave the interior a sleek, modern, and premium feel, complementing the other upgrades perfectly. To complete the look, I also fitted a new leather cover for the gear shifter, enhancing both comfort and aesthetics. These small details tie everything together, making the interior feel refined and high-quality—a perfect match for the rest of the build! Final Checks & Preparing for the Road The car is now almost complete—just a few finishing touches left. I’m going through a final double-check of all brake and suspension bolts, ensuring everything is torqued to spec. After that, it’s time for a full system test to make sure everything functions flawlessly before heading back on the road for its MOT test. A Tight Deadline Time is ticking, and there’s an actual deadline to meet. I’ve already booked a new soft-top installation with Jack Smith in Swansea, South Wales, and given how busy he is, I wouldn’t be able to get another slot anytime soon if I miss this one. A Dedicated Chapter for the Digital Cluster Throughout this build, there have been glimpses of the ID4Motion digital cluster, but instead of squeezing it into this section, I’ve decided to dedicate an entire chapter to it. It deserves detailed coverage, as it’s a significant upgrade that completely transforms the driving experience.

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Honda S2000 build series - Part 7 Bodywork and painting

Body work and paint: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey The Time Has Come: The Final Touch – The Paint Job No matter what happens, one thing is certain—everyone's first impression of the car will be shaped by its paint job. I have a little confession to make: this isn't my first attempt at respraying a car. Two years before starting work on the Honda, I tried a similar restoration—albeit on a smaller scale and with less expense. I might write about that build at some point, but for now, let’s just say it was a valuable learning experience. My first project was my old 2005 Audi A6, powered by a 3.2L V6 and equipped with Quattro all-wheel drive. It’s a fantastic car to drive, and being an estate, it’s incredibly practical. However, it was starting to look a bit tired, and I wasn’t a fan of its original color. Long story short, I stripped the car down, restored it, and repainted it in the same blue offered on the 2020 RS6. The result wasn’t too bad, considering I had chosen a large car to start with and tackled a metallic paint job—one of the trickier finishes to get right. Improving My Painting Skills Before diving into painting the Honda, I took a step back to refine my skills. From my first attempt, I learned that while I could achieve a decent finish on simpler parts like bumpers, the overall standard wasn’t quite what I would call “show car” quality. To improve, I spent countless hours watching car painting tutorials. The three YouTube channels that helped me the most were: The Gunman Paint Society Tony’s Refinishing Each channel offered valuable insights, and I’ll break down what I took away from each of them. The Gunman – Spray Gun Selection and Techniques The Gunman, an Australian YouTuber, provides excellent content on spray gun and material reviews, as well as demonstrations on how to use them effectively. Thanks to his videos, I chose my first proper spray gun—the Iwata W400 Bell aria with a 1.3mm nozzle for base and clear coats. To make it more versatile, I also purchased an additional 1.8mm nozzle for high-build primer, which I used to spray the entire Audi. Based on his recommendations, I also picked up a mini spray gun—ANI R150 with a 0.5mm nozzle—perfect for smaller parts and touch-ups. Paint Society – The Importance of Prep Work Paint Society, an American channel, reinforced one of the most critical aspects of painting: prep work. Through Brian’s tutorials, I learned that achieving a flawless base before applying color and clear coat is just as important—if not more—than the actual painting process. Any imperfections left in the prep stage—scratches, dimples, or uneven surfaces—will show through in the final finish. Tony’s Refinishing – Hands-On Training Tony’s Refinishing, a UK-based YouTube channel, became the most valuable resource for me. He covers the entire painting process, from prep work and painting to the finishing touches like polishing for a glass-like finish. Beyond his videos, what set Tony apart was his in-person training sessions. He was incredibly accommodating, tailoring the workshop specifically to my needs. I won’t disclose the exact price, but it was very reasonable, especially considering he dedicated an entire weekend day to teaching me. The training was hands-on: I practiced with my own Iwata W400 Bellaria and even had the opportunity to use a Fuji MP-V8, a superior spray gun. Tony also guided me on selecting the right materials to achieve the best finish under my specific conditions. By the end of the day, I was so impressed with the Fuji spray gun that I ended up buying one! I hope Tony received some kickback from my purchase—he certainly deserved it. Beyond the guns I mentioned, I also use Sealy spray guns (1.4mm and 2.0mm nozzles) for polyurethane paints, bed liners, and upholstery dye. These jobs don’t require a fine finish, and I prefer not to run such materials through my higher-end guns. Preparing for the Paintwork Before any painting could begin, I had to finalize the preparation by addressing the bodywork, fixing all imperfections, and setting up a proper painting environment. I divided the garage into two distinct areas: Preparation and paint mixing area Spray painting area Since it's springtime and temperatures are relatively stable around 20°C, I took additional precautions based on past experience—placing four fly traps to minimize the risk of contaminants in the paintwork. Separating the workspace wasn't just about preventing overspray from covering everything in the garage. More importantly, it helped ensure that the painting area remained as clean and dust-free as possible. To further reduce airborne dust, I kept the floor wet, preventing any particles from becoming airborne and settling on the fresh paint. However, maintaining a wet floor also meant I had to carefully monitor both humidity and temperature throughout the process to avoid any unintended effects on the paint application. The shell is masked up I was really pleased with the final coat—it looked just like glass, with no runs, just perfect. That was, of course, until it fully cured. Then, I started to notice some orange peel. However, this wasn’t a major issue. I had intentionally applied the second pass of clear coat relatively thick, allowing enough material for wet sanding and polishing to achieve the desired glass-like finish. This was also a significant moment—the point where I could finally fit the wheels. With everything in place, the car was ready to be rolled out of the garage under its own power for the first time since the build began. Once the car cleared the garage, I was finally able to start working on the remaining panels. Given my limited space, I decided to spray a maximum of two panels at a time. While I knew this approach wasn’t the most economical, as it required repeatedly setting up the spray booth and cleaning the spray gun multiple times, it did have a significant advantage—it minimized potential issues to just one or two panels at a time, making corrections much easier. Preparing the Panels The first step was fixing dents and stone chips using the minimum amount of filler necessary to ensure a smooth finish. One of the biggest modifications was the front bumper. Originally, it had holes for the headlight washers, but since they are not a legal requirement for vehicles manufactured before 2009 (as confirmed by MOT technicians), I decided to smooth out the bumper for a cleaner JDM-inspired look. To achieve a perfectly smooth surface, I used a dual-action (DA) orbital sander along with sanding blocks for more precision. At this stage, I sanded the panels with 180-grit sandpaper. This not only smoothed out imperfections but also provided a good adhesion surface (or "key") for the high-build primer. For plastic parts such as the bumper, I used a flexible filler, which has slightly more elasticity than standard body filler used on metal panels. This helps prevent cracking or separation over time due to the natural flexing of plastic components. To ensure corrosion protection, I applied epoxy primer as a direct-to-metal primer on all metal panels. According to the datasheet, I had a window of about a day to cover the epoxy primer with high-build primer to maintain proper adhesion. Once the high-build primer dried, I applied a guide coat and used a variety of sanding blocks to carefully identify and correct any remaining imperfections. This stage involved progressive sanding, finishing with 500-grit sandpaper. While the next seal coat would typically hide imperfections up to 400-grit or even 320-grit, I chose to go the extra step to ensure an ultra-smooth surface while still maintaining enough roughness for proper adhesion of the next coat. Once all the panels were ready, it was time for the black fine primer—also known as a sealer in the U.S. Since the high-build primer was white, jumping straight to black paint could risk uneven coverage, with areas where the base coat might not fully conceal the underlying primer. By applying this black fine primer, I ensured uniform coverage and a consistent base for the final color. Additionally, using a sealer helps with paint adhesion, reduces the number of base coat layers needed, and improves the overall durability and finish of the paint job. Before doing the outside of all panels I did the insides first. At this stage, the results don’t look particularly great yet. With all panels done and in place, the car is now ready for the clear coat cutting and polishing stage. Fortunately, the white spots and impurities visible in the picture are just dust particles sitting on the dry clear coat, not actual defects within the clear coat itself. This means the surface remains smooth and free of embedded contaminants, making the cutting and polishing process much more straightforward. Now, it's all about refining the finish to achieve that deep, mirror-like gloss. The thick clear coat is providing plenty of room to level the finish, allowing me to carefully sand and polish without worrying about burning through the layers. This extra thickness ensures I can eliminate any orange peel or minor imperfections, ultimately achieving a smooth, glass-like surface with a deep, reflective shine. The cutting and polishing process is going well, and I’m finally starting to see the perfectly flat, mirror-like finish I was aiming for. All the effort in prep work, clear coat application, and careful sanding is now paying off. Once the bodywork was complete, I shifted my focus to the headlights. There are plenty of tutorials available on headlight restoration, but this method is one of the only truly long-lasting solutions. The process begins by sanding the headlights down, starting with 240-grit sandpaper and gradually working up to 1000-grit—but no finer than that. Going beyond 1000-grit can make the surface too smooth for the clear coat to properly adhere, leading to premature peeling within a year or two. I learned this the hard way years ago when I sanded up to 3000-grit, only to watch the clear coat start peeling not long after. By keeping the final sanding at 1000-grit, the surface retains just enough texture for the clear coat to bond effectively, ensuring long-term durability and a factory-quality finish. After applying the clear coat, the headlights now look just like new—if not better. A bit of cutting and polishing further refines the finish, bringing out even more clarity and shine. The result is better than new, with a deep, crystal-clear look that perfectly complements the freshly painted bodywork. I really liked these tail lights, and since they are road legal in the UK, the decision to go with them was an easy one. However, there was an ordering mishap—I had originally ordered clear tail lights, but I received tinted ones instead. The store admitted that the mistake was on their end, but we quickly ran into a complication. Thanks to Brexit, I had already paid VAT, import taxes, and clearance fees. Returning the lights to Europe meant I would have to figure out how to claim back those costs, which was far from straightforward. After discussing the situation with the shop, we reached an agreement: I would try to sell the incorrect set locally, and they would offer some compensation for their mistake. Fortunately, I got extremely lucky and managed to sell the tinted set on Facebook Marketplace within a day of listing them. With that sorted, I went ahead and ordered another set, this time receiving the correct version. In the end, I didn’t lose any money, and everything worked out just fine. And here it is—the final result. For an amateur paint job, I couldn’t be happier. Every step, from bodywork prep to painting, cutting, and polishing, has come together beautifully. The finish is smooth, glossy, and reflective, exactly what I was aiming for. Considering all the effort and learning that went into this project, seeing the car in its fresh, showroom-worthy state makes it all worth it! There’s still some work left to do, and in the next episode, I’ll be focusing on restoring the seats and reinstalling the interior. With the exterior now looking better than ever, it’s time to bring the inside of the car up to the same standard. Stay tuned for the next stage of the build!   

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Honda S2000 build series - Part 6 Big Brake Kit and suspension

Big Brake Kit and suspension: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey One of the Achilles' heels of this otherwise very capable platform is the brakes. They simply don’t do much, and even with a decent set of pads, they start to fade. The braking performance becomes unpredictable—every time you step on the pedal, it feels like you can’t be sure how much braking force you actually have. Maybe that’s just my driving style, but even for heavy-footed drivers like me, this can definitely be improved. I didn’t want to go for a full-on specialist braking kit like StopTech, and it wasn’t just about the price. I wanted something that looked as if Honda could have made it themselves, staying true to the OEM+ spirit of this build. Several companies offer Brembo 4-pot conversion kits, and I ultimately chose FreakyParts for two reasons. First, they seem to specialize in these kits, and second, it was Black Friday, which meant a 10% discount, saving me nearly £100 off the £1k total, including discs and pads. Another reason I went with Brembo is that, unlike specialist racing brake calipers, these come from a standard road car—in this case, the Renault Megane RS3. This means they have weatherproof rubber seals between the pistons and the calipers, reducing maintenance and preventing debris buildup. I understand that rubber dust seals aren’t ideal for a hardcore track car, but if I ever hit the track, it won’t be to set lap records or compete—just for fun. Even in comparison, the brakes already look so much bigger—a massive improvement. Not only do the Brembo calipers use larger brake pads, but the kit also includes larger brake discs. The original discs are 300mm x 25mm, whereas the kit comes with discs from a Nissan Murano II 3.5. To make them fit, the center bore is machined to match the 70mm Honda wheel hub bore. And yes, these discs are significantly heavier than the originals—but that’s the price you pay for better stopping power. Test-Fitting the Calipers Before installing everything on the car, I wanted to test-fit the calipers onto the wheel knuckle. It’s much safer to check how everything comes together now, rather than struggling with it when everything is already mounted. Having more space to work with makes the process much easier. Attention to Detail – Matching the Red I was also particular about matching the shade of red with the Brembo calipers. Even though they won’t be right next to each other once installed, I wanted to get that fine detail just right. Rear Caliper Refresh I’ve replaced almost all components on the rear calipers, making them look and perform just like new. They’re now connected to brand-new handbrake cables, ensuring everything functions perfectly. Suspension Choice – Öhlins Coilovers I hinted earlier that my coilovers of choice were Öhlins—and yes, they’re not the cheapest option for the S2000. However, Tegiwa had a 15% summer sale, bringing the price down to around £1,900 for the full kit, including springs—not a bad deal at all. Initially, I considered Skunk2 coilovers, as they were about £500 cheaper. However, after doing some internet research, I came across several complaints. Since I already knew a few people running Öhlins who were very happy with their choice, I decided to cross Skunk2 off my list and go with proven quality instead.   In this picture, the old steering rod ends are still visible. However, they have since been replaced with HardRace OE-style arms and ends, ensuring better durability and performance. Brake Line Upgrade & Spacer Fitment To connect the brake calipers to the solid brake lines, I opted for Bridgestone black braided hoses. I chose black to keep them low-profile, making them more of an invisible feature rather than something that stands out. Unfortunately, the front wheel hubs required 20mm spacers. Unlike the rear, where I was happy to fit extended studs for the 15mm spacers, 20mm was too much for that style. Instead, I went with H&R bolt-on spacers. I really like the first edition facelift wheels, and I didn’t want to swap them for aftermarket wheels just to make them compatible with the big brake kit. Once everything was fitted and connected, it was time to fill the system with Motul 660 brake fluid, bleed out any air, and check that all fixed lines and unions were properly sealed. Since the car is still lifted—and will be for a while—this also provides a great opportunity to monitor for any slow leaks that might appear over the coming days and weeks. Here’s how the brake calipers look with the facelift V1 wheels—a perfect fit that maintains the OEM+ aesthetic while accommodating the big brake kit. This is starting to look more and more promising—almost time to fire up the engine for the first time! ?? Suspension Components Summary Here’s a breakdown of the suspension components installed: Bushings: All bushes, except for the front lower rear compliant bush (which is a Mugen rubber bush), have been replaced with purple PowerFlex poly bushes. Yes, I’m aware they’ll need to be stripped down, cleaned, and re-greased every few years, but with proper maintenance, they should last a very long time. Rear Toe Control Arms: JS Racing adjustable arms to help fix the bump steer issue when hitting potholes or uneven surfaces. Ball Joints: New rear ball joints for the rear wheel knuckles, as well as new front wheel knuckle ball joints. Chassis Reinforcement: JS Racing front strut bar – aiming to reduce chassis twisting momentum in corners. Spoon reinforcement bar on the transmission tunnel for added rigidity. Hardware: New bolts, nuts, and caster components, with some refurbished parts where possible. Next Up: Bodywork Now comes the most stressful part of the build—the bodywork. This is where keeping eye temperature, timing, and attention to detail will be tested to the limit.

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Honda S2000 build series - Part 5 Engine and drive train

Engine installation with the drivetrain: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey Installing the engine will be fun—well, this is meant with a healthy dose of sarcasm. I knew I didn’t want to be hoisting the engine in from the top and then reconnecting the gearbox, so I came up with a new plan: place the engine on the front subframe, attach the gearbox, and slide the entire assembly in from the bottom. This meant I had to lift the shell that little bit more. Before I could attach the gearbox, it was time to install the clutch. First things first—installing the new flywheel. Although the previous flywheel had only covered less than 20k miles, I opted for a new one. After all, this is a job I don’t want to do again for a very, very long time. Proper alignment was crucial. I torqued the new flywheel bolts according to the Honda workshop manual, which also recommends not reusing the old bolts. I modified a 17mm, 12-sided socket to sit flush with the base of the bolt. This provided maximum grip and prevented the bolt head from rounding off. Actually, I modified that 17mm socket much earlier, as I needed it to remove the old flywheel. That had to be done because I was also replacing the crank seal. Before I was ready to install the clutch and join the gearbox with the engine, I wanted to ensure the flywheel sat perfectly in place. To verify this, I used a spring-loaded gauge, mounting one end to the crankcase and the other to inspect for any deviations in measurement while manually turning the crankshaft. I didn’t really document the clutch replacement—it’s a shame. However, if you’ve ever watched the "LHT Performance" channel on YouTube, they provide some great tips and detailed videos on what to do, what not to do, and which parts are recommended for replacement, even if the manual doesn’t mention them. For the list of parts, I started with an original Honda clutch kit and original Honda release bearing. I also replaced the clutch release bearing guide, input shaft seal in the gearbox, clutch release fork, clutch slave cylinder, and the rubber cover for the clutch slave cylinder. Special care was taken when applying Honda Urea grease. And if you're wondering what happened to the new cover—well, as I worked around the engine, lifting it with a crane and sliding it under the car, I decided to put the old one on for now. Before the engine was lifted into place, I also added rigid collars to the subframe from Delta Lima Engineering, a company based in the Netherlands. While I have plenty of Spoon parts on this car, the rigid collars from Delta Lima were much more affordable. Additionally, I didn’t want to risk buying low-grade fakes at full price on eBay. As mentioned earlier, I found that lifting the car shell a bit higher and sliding the engine underneath was much safer and easier. Although the poor car creeper somehow managed to withstand the full weight of the engine and gearbox, it was borderline sketchy. But hey, this is DIY, is it not? As one wise man once said (Bear Grylls) Improvise, Adapt, Overcome! Once the engine was in place, I used an engine crane to very slowly and carefully lift it until I was able to secure the subframe with a set of new bolts. Although I had restored the old set, I later changed my mind and decided to get new ones. Besides, the Honda manual recommends using a new set anyway. Getting the subframe positioned correctly and leveled is more critical than it seems. The main reason is that if the subframe bolts are not threaded in perfectly, they can damage the threads in the chassis, leading to a cross-threading nightmare— and fixing that is a whole new level of hell. I started by carefully locating the threads and threading the bolts in by hand with a bit of anti-seize, ensuring they were fully engaged and going in smoothly. Once I could no longer tighten them by hand, I switched to a smaller ratchet, making sure each turn had no resistance. At no point did I use electric or pneumatic tools to tighten these bolts. Not only is it important to keep the bolts straight, but it’s also crucial to tighten them in a cross pattern while checking the frame alignment as it is slowly raised toward the car body. This is where the rigid collars help. The subframe has oversized holes for easier installation at the factory, and the main purpose of the collars is to fill those gaps between the subframe and the car body, reducing movement during cornering—at least in theory. Before lifting the engine, I also attached the exhaust manifold. Instead of using the original studs and nuts, I switched to titanium ones because I didn’t like how the original ones would look after a couple of years. Yes, many of my replacements and upgrades are purely for cosmetic reasons rather than performance or handling improvements. Just above the exhaust manifold is the JS Racing heat shield, which has a cutout for the engine torque damper. Replacing the original AC condenser, as the old one was in a bit of a sorry state. It was still functional; however, it was already missing a lot of fins, and the ones that remained were neither particularly straight nor optimal for airflow. Also not making a return was the original radiator—instead, I went with a Koyorad. This radiator purchase also led to some unexpected additional purchases. When I bought the radiator, I also ordered the matching Koyorad radiator cap. However, when the radiator arrived, the cap was missing. These things happen, so I called the company I ordered from. The lady on the phone apologized for the mishap and immediately offered to send the cap. She must have had some kind of spider sense because, out of nowhere, she mentioned a JS Racing strut bar brace at a discounted price. The offer was too good to refuse, so yeah… more money gone. That said, I have to admit, the strut bar looks great. It adds a nice shine to the engine bay, and the gold ends perfectly match the Öhlins suspension—but more on those in the next chapter. I don’t mind when a company makes mistakes; these things happen. What truly separates good companies from bad ones is how they handle issues when they arise. And I have to say, throughout this build, I’ve encountered a few hiccups with my orders, but every company I’ve dealt with has had exceptional customer service. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to find a JS Racing engine torque damper. Luckily, though, Tegiwa offers their own version, which appears to be made to match the JS Racing fixings. To complete the engine installation, I reconnected all hoses and wiring, connected the engine loom back to the ECU, and reattached it to the fuse box and battery terminal. On the exhaust side, I gave the catalytic converter and its cover a fresh coat of UHT paint. However, I made a fatal mistake—one that I would only discover later. Instead of connecting the O₂ sensors to the ECU, I somehow managed to connect the ECU to itself, which ended up burning out one of the transistors inside. Luckily, when I visited TGM in Fleet, Tom had a few ECUs in stock. He kindly offered to let me borrow one so I could check the component part number and order the transistor from an electronics supplier like Farnell or RS. In the end, I decided to just buy it from him instead. I would have needed to open the ECU, and if he later sold it to someone and it didn’t work, I wouldn’t want him to be suspicious of me. Differential Rebuild & Upgrade With the engine now in place, let's focus on the rest of the drivetrain. I’ve watched many YouTube videos on differential rebuilds, and one channel really stood out—PuddyModRacing. His videos provide an in-depth look at the rebuild process and how to fix the inherent weakness of the crush pinion nut, which is supposed to maintain proper backlash in the differential gears. I began by taking the differential apart, cleaning the casing, repainting it, and sourcing all the necessary gaskets, seals, bearings, JS Racing diff rigid collars, and spacers. I also decided to go for a slight upgrade—changing the gear ratio from the original 4.1 to 4.44. However, I quickly learned that setting up a differential properly is a highly specialized job. Luckily, within our small community, we had a contact in London who specializes in Hondas and has been rebuilding differentials for quite some time. Instead of relying on trial and error, I packed the diff into the boot and went to see him. He was incredibly helpful, keeping me updated throughout the process. If he discovered an issue, he would check with me first—either so I could supply the necessary parts or so he could fix it, though it would cost a bit more. Absolute legend. Driveshaft Overhaul With the differential done, next up were the driveshafts. I had previously purchased a refurbished driveshaft from Ballade Sports, and while some of their products are great, others can be a bit hit or miss. Unfortunately, in my case, the driveshaft was a miss—at least based on my experience. While it didn’t fail mechanically, after just 3–4 years, the cv boot developed numerous cracks and splits—something I hadn’t seen on other driveshafts I’d owned before, even much older ones. Additionally, the grease inside the inner cap wasn’t the original Honda grease. I’m no expert, but it looked more like the type used for the outer CV joint, which wasn’t ideal. To fix this, I decided to replace both the inner and outer CV boots with new ones, along with the recommended Honda grease. I stripped them down, cleaned everything, and reassembled them. The process itself isn’t too difficult—the key part is keeping track of the bearings and their exact positioning in relation to the inner cap, ensuring they don’t get mixed up during reassembly. Unexpected Setback with Wheel Bearings A surprise awaited me when it was time to press the new wheel bearings into the knuckles and install the wheel hubs. I should have inspected them earlier, but I failed to notice the damage—and it was no good. I had given the wheel knuckles to someone (I’m not going to name and shame) to press out the old bearings, as he had a press. He even offered to remove the remaining bearing part from the wheel hub. However, when I got them back, they were badly pitted, looking as if they had been hit with a hammer, and even had visible cuts on them. When it came time for installation, the guy handling my differential rebuild sent me pictures showing just how bad they were. He advised me to get new ones, and he had no reason to lie—after all, I was sourcing them myself. Unfortunately, this led to an unexpected delay as I had to wait for new wheel knuckles to arrive from Japan. Since I’m installing spacers, I also had to replace the wheel studs with slightly longer ones on the rear axle to properly fit the 15mm slip-on H&R spacers. Another Task Complete With this all sorted, it's time to move on. Next up: suspension and Big Brake Kit installation.

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Honda S2000 build series - Part 4 Sound System

Sound System: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey Subframes, Brake Lines, and Engine Bay Components – Done! Now, Let’s Talk Sound System. Last time, I installed the subframes, brake lines, and started putting back some of the engine bay components. Well, this time, I’m covering something very exciting—at least, very exciting for me. For me, the sound system is one of the most important parts of this build. It’s an opportunity to create a sound capsule—to experience music in its fullest. When it comes to music, I like to listen to the entire spectrum. Ear-shattering bass isn’t something I’d enjoy. I appreciate a wide range of different music styles—and yes, sometimes I even listen to classical music, drum and bass, rock, pop, techno, and country. I want my sound system to perform well for all of it. What Does the Stock Honda S2000 Sound System Offer? Well… not much. The original S2000 came with two basic door speakers—not exactly an audiophile’s dream. The later models included tweeters in the door cards, but their location isn’t optimal, as I’ll explain later. They also came equipped with speakers in the crash hoops. My Sound System Plan I decided on the following setup: ✔ Mid-bass speakers in the doors✔ Tweeters in the A-pillars✔ Crash hoop speakers as a sound filler✔ Active subwoofer Choosing the Right Speakers & Amplifiers Decisions, decisions… What combination of speakers and amplifiers would work best? After some research, I pulled the trigger on the deepest door speakers I could find—the Focal ES 162 K2 from the Elite range. Why Focal ES 162 K2? ✔ 2-way component kit with external audiophile-quality crossover✔ Separate tweeters for more accurate sound staging✔ Frequency response: 60Hz to 22kHz✔ Nominal power: 100W RMS✔ Impedance: 2Ω✔ Aramid fiber cone for high-precision, dynamic sound The Amplifier: JL XD400/4V2 ✔ 400W 4-channel amplifier✔ Individual channels for each woofer and tweeter✔ Enough power to let the woofers shine Active Subwoofer: Focal IBUS20 ✔ 8" subwoofer✔ Power: 130W RMS✔ Frequency response: 45Hz - 150Hz (perfectly complements the door speakers)✔ Compact size—easily hidden The Secondary Amplifier Having just a single 4-channel amplifier wasn’t enough for me—I also needed an amplifier to power the crash hoop speakers. Since these didn’t need anything too powerful or complex, I opted for the Focal FDS 4.430 (4 x 58W RMS). The Head Unit: What Did I Choose? Originally, my plan was to reuse my Pioneer DEH-80PRS—an absolute beast of a head unit. And by beast, I don’t mean it was super powerful—it was a beast in sound quality. The equalizer was unlike anything I had experienced from any other head unit. That’s because it’s a competition-class head unit with incredible components. To my disappointment and surprise, not even Pioneer’s current flagship head unit could match it. Why Didn’t I Use the Pioneer DEH-80PRS? The main issue—it’s single DIN. That might be perfect for some, but my plans were bigger—much bigger. 2-DIN big. What Did I Choose Instead? The Pioneer SPH-EVO64DAB. ✔ Wireless Apple CarPlay connectivity✔ Large touchscreen with decent response time✔ Quality sound output with a solid equalizer✔ Innovative design—the screen is separate from the head unit, allowing the head unit to fit into a single DIN port Powering the Sound System Now, two important questions needed to be answered: 1. How do I power all of this? ✔ Solution: A 4GA gauge multi-core wire—capable of handling 1,500W of power. That should be enough. 2. Where do I install all this gear? This was probably the trickiest challenge yet. However, there was one place I could utilize—the spare wheel area. Well… only if the spare wheel wasn’t there. Do I Need a Spare Wheel? A quick check of the legislation revealed that I don’t actually need a spare wheel. Victory! No stopping me now—I could fully utilize that space. Final Thoughts I have to say, removing the spare wheel saved some weight… only to add all of it back (and more) with the sound system—not to mention the sound deadening I installed. This was a long write-up, so here’s a quick summary of all the materials used so far: ✔ Speakers✔ Amplifiers✔ Head unit✔ Wiring✔ Sound deadening✔ Power splitter✔ Fuse holders✔ Speaker spacers✔ Wire connectors and accessories After receiving almost all the gear, it was time to start planning the installation process. The idea was to have the amplifier, crossovers, distribution block, and fuses placed on a single board. For that, I decided to use a 10mm black acrylic sheet. Here’s why: ✔ I can cut threads into the acrylic sheet.✔ It’s strong yet relatively flexible—able to withstand bumps from potholes.✔ It looks great in glossy black (yes, I know it won’t be visible anyway). First Phase: Planning the Physical Layout Instead of cutting into the acrylic straight away, I decided to use MDF for prototyping and testing the layout. This way, I could fine-tune the design before committing to the final material. And yes—this is all happening in the space where the spare wheel used to be. After I was happy with the layout, I moved on to the next phase—making it from the acrylic sheet itself and creating brackets to support the installation board in place. The small board above the fuel tank holds the secondary amplifier for the roll hoop protection speakers. However, first, I needed to lay down the sound-deadening material to prevent unwanted vibrations. I opted for Dynamat—and yes, this isn’t going to be light or cheap. I used 10 sheets of the standard Dynamat for the floor panels and 3 sheets of Dynamat SuperLite for the doors. The installation is very simple—cut the desired piece and use a small metal roller to press out any air bubbles. I’m aware of some cheaper brands, and they would probably perform just as well as Dynamat. However, I didn’t feel like experimenting, and I didn’t want to compromise on quality. Once the sound-deadening treatment was done, it was time to install the amp, subwoofer, and wire the power supply. The power system for such an installation requires a dedicated fuse placed right next to the battery on the positive wire. This is a safety measure—in case the wire insulation gets damaged and shorts against the chassis. The fuse is mounted on a bracket that I made from an aluminum sheet, giving it a factory-like look rather than something that feels like an afterthought. I used the car chassis as the negative ground connection. Remember When I Was Building the Engine? Well, as part of the rebuild, I also upgraded the power wires. Here’s a comparison between the original and the new ones. To make these, I used high-quality 4GA multi-core wires and a hydraulic crimping tool. For the battery connection, I installed a multi-output battery terminal to replace the original one. Now that I have power, I can connect the amplifiers and start the initial tuning process. The 4GA wire runs from the battery straight to a secondary fuse box. This fuse box distributes power to the main amplifier, subwoofer, and secondary amplifier. There is also a blue wire, which serves as the power ON/OFF control for the amplifiers and subwoofer. This is controlled by the head unit, ensuring that the battery doesn’t drain when the car is switched off. Now to the Tuning Process This is just the first stage of tuning. Before I even plug in the speakers, I want to make sure the amplifier is set correctly and that the sound is not clipping. There are several ways to do this. Some dedicated tools use diodes to indicate clipping. However, I happen to have the ultimate precision tool for tuning any sound system—the mighty oscilloscope. Well… at least I thought I had one. Long story short, my oscilloscope is several decades old, and I hadn’t used it for a few years. Unfortunately, when I tried turning it on, it gave me a memory error. The good news? One of my previous careers was as an electronics engineer, so I was able to identify the faulty memory chip causing the issue. To my surprise, I was even able to buy a brand-new replacement—yes, still available to buy today! I also discovered that these chips have built-in batteries that last around 10 years. Well, at least I fixed it, and the tuning can now continue! Tuning Process & Speaker Wiring Challenges To outline the tuning process, I connected the head unit with the equalizer set to flat across all frequencies. Using my phone, I played a sound wave generator set to a sinusoidal wave. With the sound level set high, I began tuning the amplifier gain to the point where the wave remained clean and clear without clipping the tops. I repeated this for all four channels. The subwoofer level will be adjusted later once the speakers are installed. Fast Forward a Bit… Skipping ahead to the point where the car has been resprayed, the doors have been refitted, and the anti-roll hoops (from the 2006+ model) have been installed. The interior is still not in place at this stage. To connect the speakers, I decided to use the recommended speaker cable and needed two 39ft rolls of it. The cable in question? Focal ES25—100% oxygen-free copper wire. The Brexit Dilemma Sourcing this specialist speaker wire turned out to be quite tricky—and thanks to Brexit, also insanely hilarious. Hear me out. The wire is made in France, yet, thanks to Brexit, I couldn’t find a single company in Europe that would ship it to the United Kingdom. Instead, I had to buy it from the USA and have it shipped across the ocean. Mind-boggling. Well, I’m not getting into politics, but there’s a Brexit benefit for you right there. Now, some might point out, "You could have just used any 13AWG oxygen-free wire." But I wanted a matching speaker wire for my set of speakers. USB connectivity & Speaker Setup To hide my phone while charging or in case I need to use a wired connection to the head unit, I decided to install a hidden USB-C connector inside the glove box compartment. As for the built-in crash hoop speakers, they serve only as sound fillers—filling the space behind the head with mid-high frequency sound, creating a more surround-like experience. Although I purchased an upgraded set of speakers recommended by Modifry, they are currently sitting in the box. I might install them at some point, but I didn’t want to irreversibly modify the existing setup or cut through the original covers. That’s a project for future me. Comparing the Original Honda Speaker vs. the New Focal ES 165 K2 These speakers were chosen specifically because their depth is right at the limit of what can be fitted without modifying the door cards. Now, installing the speakers where they belong. The large open space was later covered with sound-deadening material. Installing the Head Unit Let’s start installing the head unit. As mentioned earlier, I wanted a double-DIN unit, and I had a cunning plan for how it would be installed. The head unit itself is single-DIN and fits perfectly into the factory single-DIN slot. The display is a separate unit and can be mounted anywhere using an extension cable. This detachable screen will become even more important in the next installation step, as you’ll see shortly. A Surprise Issue to Fix First Well, there was one more surprise hiding—one I knew I had to resolve first. One of the previous owners installed an aftermarket head unit. That wouldn’t have been a bad thing—but the bad part is that they chopped off the original connector instead of buying a proper adapter harness. So, while I was at TGM, I sourced this part of the wiring loom from one of the spare cars they had. What Was the Cunning Plan for the Double-DIN? Well, the plan was to get a JDM dashboard. Unfortunately, even though I had the part number, the local dealer was unable to source one for me, as it was only available for the Japanese market. I then turned my search to Japan, trying several sources. The prices—including shipping—varied wildly, ranging from £1,000 to £2,000 just for shipping. Some sellers even gave me a quote, only to later cancel my order. But I didn’t give up. I finally found a company and ended up paying £1,300 in total—including shipping—plus taxes. Yes, that’s right. I paid £1,300 just for the dashboard. Have I mentioned that this is the ultimate no-compromise build? The Dashboard Installation The dashboard fits perfectly. The only issue was the color of the airbag cover, but luckily, I was able to get one from TGM in Fleet, along with several other interior bits and pieces, for a very reasonable price. There’s a lot going on, and I promise I will cover the instrument cluster in one of the next posts. If you look closely at where the screen sits, you can see that the space is quite shallow, so I had to create a custom bracket to hold the screen in place. I’ve seen people cut a hole and fit a double-DIN unit into that space for a fraction of what I paid for the JDM dashboard. However, I’ve also seen that the surround doesn’t sit perfectly in place, and the vinyl tends to crumble behind it—which is exactly why I wanted to go for the genuine one. Tweeter Placement for Optimal Sound Remember when I mentioned that the tweeters in the door cards are not in the optimal location for the best sound experience, as they project sound away from you? I decided to fix this issue by mounting the tweeters in the A-pillars, ensuring that the sound beam is directed straight towards the head for the most optimal sound projection. Once all the speakers were in place and the sound system was tuned, it was time to cover everything behind the carpet and call it done. With the spare wheel cover in place, the entire system is completely hidden, and I haven’t lost an inch of space in the boot. Wasn’t This a Long Chapter? Surely, some might object to my build and perhaps even tilt their heads in disbelief at how expensive this must have been—especially after also getting a new dashboard and having it shipped from Japan. In the next chapter, I will be covering the installation of the engine back into the car and the drivetrain.

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Honda S2000 Build Series - Part 3 Subframes, fuel tank, brake lines

Subframes, Fuel tank, brake lines: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey If you’ve been following my progress, you might have seen in the previous chapter that I completed the engine restoration, and the engine is now set aside, waiting to be installed back into the car. This time, I’ll be making progress on the shell, and as the title suggests, I will be restoring the fuel tank to look like new, refurbishing the subframes, and making new brake lines from marine-grade stainless steel. I know—it’s not the easiest material to work with, but I’ll touch on that later. Fuel Tank Restoration First things first—the fuel tank. Removing it is pretty much a rear subframe-down type of job, and since I had already removed the subframe earlier while preparing the car shell, I was one step ahead. I had to strip all the old paint, and the toughest part was removing the rubber coating. Luckily, there was no rust compromising the integrity of the tank, so with just a rust converter treatment, I was happy to move straight to the painting process. As with the shell, I started with Raptor epoxy primer. However, unlike the shell, I then used polyurethane industrial paint as the top coat. This should protect the epoxy primer from UV light and create a tough, hard-wearing finish. The bottom of the fuel tank was also treated with Raptor bed liner for added durability, helping prevent paint chips from small stones. As part of the fuel tank restoration, I also decided to replace the fuel pump and fuel filter sock. When driving, I had noticed the old fuel pump getting louder and louder—perhaps it was replaced just in time. The fuel pump I chose was the DeatschWerks DW200 255LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump, paired with an original genuine Honda fuel sock.   Fuel Tank Sorted—Now Moving On to the Subframes For this part, I found a local sandblasting specialist. Choosing someone local was very important, as I wanted to ensure the parts were painted immediately without unnecessary delays. The main reason for this was to prevent flash rust from setting in. To save some time, I also gave him some of the suspension parts so they could be painted at the same time. As with most of my direct-to-metal applications, I used epoxy primer. For the subframes and suspension parts, I opted for a polyurethane-based paint as the top coat. I know some people prefer powder coating, but from my experience working with powder-coated parts, I found them too easy to chip. Powder coating creates a crust-like shell that looks nice and can hide imperfections better than primer and topcoat. However, painting is my personal preference Subframes Done – Now Moving On to Brake Lines The subframes are done, painted, and semi-installed. You might have noticed that there are new differential bushes from Innovative—I decided to go for the softer option to keep the car closer to a stock-like feel. The fuel tank is installed back in the car, and the rear subframe is in place, although it's only loosely fitted. The reason I haven’t tightened it yet is because of the rear brake lines—they actually run between the shell and the top part of the subframe, so it would be very tricky to fit them later if the subframe was fully tightened now. Now on to the Brake Lines As I mentioned earlier, I decided to go for stainless steel brake lines instead of the more traditional copper-nickel lines, which are commonly used by DIY car restorers in the UK. Here’s why: Copper-Nickel Pros: ✔ Cheaper (a lot cheaper)✔ Easy to find in the UK✔ Easier to work with – the material is softer, bends more easily, and flares with less effort Copper-Nickel Cons: ✖ Although copper is corrosion-resistant, it oxidizes over time, creating a greenish tint on the surface✖ The burst pressure is lower than the original steel lines and also lower than stainless steel Stainless Steel Pros: ✔ Looks good for longer – resists oxidation and discoloration✔ Higher burst pressure than copper-nickel✔ Holds its shape better – once straightened, it stays straight better than copper-nickel Stainless Steel Cons: ✖ Expensive – costs 3-4 times more than copper-nickel✖ Harder to bend – requires more force and some practice to avoid kinking✖ Flaring is trickier – extra care is needed to inspect for splits at the flare   So, where did I manage to get the stainless steel lines from? The USA. Yes, I couldn’t find a supplier in the UK, so that was my only option. For this car, I ended up ordering two 25ft coils. Although I had no luck finding the lines in the UK, I did manage to source the stainless steel brake unions locally. To make the flares, I decided to use a turret-style flare tool. I used the original lines as a template, and it worked pretty well. Before installing the brake and clutch lines, I have also started to installing some of the other engine bay components back in and again used new PVC sleeve to wrap the wiring harness in. This was also a good opportunity to install a new brake master cylinder. Additionally, I noticed a dark paste leaking into the interior from the clutch pedal—a clear sign that the clutch master cylinder also needed to be replaced. I didn’t just completely replace the brake lines—I also replaced the clutch line, including the flex hose. On the Topic of the Clutch System... Well, I accidentally ordered the clutch slave cylinder for the facelift model. The good news is that it’s a direct fit. However, this also means I now have the delay valve. This could be a good thing, as it helps protect the drivetrain, but if I find it annoying, I can remove the internal valve, which will eliminate the delay. For now, I’m keeping it as is. The brake lines are connected to the calipers via braided lines. I will revisit the brakes in a later chapter when I install a BBK (Big Brake Kit), so for now, I’m leaving them as they are. It’s January, and it’s too cold to do any bodywork, so that leaves me with the next task—and perhaps a very exciting one. In the next chapter, I’ll be designing and installing the sound system—let’s give the little Honda a bit of oomph when it comes to music! 

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Honda S2000 build series - Part 2 Engine rebuild

Rebuilding the engine: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey In the previous chapter, I introduced myself, the car, and outlined the plan. I have decided to split the rebuild project into chapters—they might not all be in chronological order, but I thought organizing them this way would make it easier to navigate through the project and perhaps easier for you, as a reader, to follow the progress. The car has covered roughly 110k miles, and although there were almost no issues with the engine—yes, I said almost—that will soon become very important. When I mentioned that I bought the car in 2011 with 80k miles and was very happy with its condition, there was a hidden secret lurking in the engine—a secret that decided to reveal itself just six months later. This issue would become an important and expensive part of the rebuild during this project. Whoever had been servicing the car before me did not follow proper torque specifications and either cross-threaded or over-tightened a spark plug into the cylinder head. This is my theory, as I have never heard of F20 engines having issues with spark plugs. Well, this mistake caused the spark plug to blow out of the cylinder head, setting the ignition coil on fire. Luckily, the timing of this failure was fortunate—it happened just as I was arriving home from work and parking in front of my house. Just a few days earlier, we had been touring the Netherlands, and I had forgotten to buy European breakdown coverage, which would have covered returning the car to the UK. That could have been a disaster. To wrap up this story—I visited a Honda dealership, probably just for fun, only to be told that they would have to organize a specialist skeleton crew to fix the engine, as the dealership did not typically handle these types of repairs. Other quotes I received were around £2,000, with shops explicitly stating that there would be no warranty on the work. I couldn’t justify spending that much, although I don’t feel like the garages were trying to rip me off. This left me with only one option—my first-ever attempt to rebuild a cylinder head myself. I took the head to a specialist engineering shop, where they replaced the damaged thread with a thread insert, ensuring that the new thread was even stronger than the original. Just a couple of weeks later, the car was back on the road, and I was happy again. Fast-forward 10 years… As I mentioned earlier, this will be important later. With that backstory out of the way, we can now focus on the current project, as some of my decisions will now start making more sense.  The engine has been hoisted out and placed on a rotary engine stand, ready to be stripped down. The parts list for the engine can now begin—one of many lists, one of many orders, and one of many... "Oh, I forgot to order that part" moments. Upgrades Overview This is probably a good point to outline the list of upgrades as well: Oil baffle pan – Screw-on from Ballade Sport Upgraded oil jet squirters – Mine were still 2-port instead of 4-port (I believe there was also a recall from Honda for this upgrade) Upgraded chain tensioner – Ballade Sport (Although I don’t have any issues yet, when I fitted the Toda one to my friend’s car, it felt like much better quality—at least, that was my impression.) Lightweight flywheel – Not super lightweight, just slightly lighter Aftermarket radiator – Koyorad (Not that the original one was inadequate, but it looked a bit tired, and I quite like the look of the aftermarket one.) I didn’t want to enhance the engine’s performance—just make small changes to improve reliability and perhaps prepare it for some light track use. As part of the refresh: Almost all rubber hoses were replaced—whether oil, air, or fuel hoses. 22-year-old rubber wasn’t something I wanted to keep in the car. All fuel pipes – Luckily, I managed to get genuine Honda ones. Both engine mounts All chains All gaskets that I could find All hose clips – Either restored or bought new. All bolts, nuts, washers, and brackets – Either new or restored. New cylinder head (I’ll come back to that later.) New valves, springs, and valve retainers – Since I was already fitting a new cylinder head, I decided not to reuse the old ones. New valve cover – I was running out of time, so instead of restoring the original one, I just bought a new one. New ignition coil cover – Gold to confuse people, as that was originally from the 2.2L AP2 engines. New intake-side camshaft – The original had rust pits due to the car not being driven often, which meant the oil hadn’t circulated regularly.   Time to strip everything down to just the engine block. I'm not sure I can call this complete engine rebuild as I have decided not to touch the crank shaft and pistons, reason being the cylinder walls were nice and smooth, the engine never smoked, not consumed more oil than it's normal and the oil always remained gold color. I have therefore decided not to touch them. The engine block has been cleaned though and I have also cleaned the tops of the pistons to remove all carbon deposits and test fitting the bolt on oil baffle plate. Remember when I mentioned that the cylinder head had been repaired with metal inserts? Well, as I removed the spark plugs, one of the threads decided to come out with the spark plug, and no matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it back in. This made me think about the future—would I go back to the engineering shop, have the inserts fitted again, and possibly face the same issue a few years later? This question was haunting me, and after a quick search, I decided not to take any chances. "Just order a new cylinder head," my mind was telling me. Luckily, I was able to find a brand-new head directly from Japan through Amayama. This shop quickly became my go-to place for almost all my parts—and for good reason. I was able to get genuine brand-new Honda parts for half the price (or even cheaper) than at a UK Honda dealer. Even after factoring in delivery costs from Japan, import taxes, and fees, I was still saving a huge amount of money. What’s more, the delivery times were around two weeks, whereas Honda UK had back-ordered parts that took months—for the exact same parts. To give you an example: The cylinder head cost around £1,500 from Amayama, while the UK main dealer was asking £3,500 for the same part. The valves and almost all other parts followed a similar pricing pattern. Some O-rings that Honda dealers priced at over £30 per piece were available for just $1 each with the same part number. For a project like this, keeping an eye on costs is crucial. No, this isn’t a budget build, but at the same time, I don’t want to take out a second mortgage just to complete it.    Although buying all the parts new would have been quicker, as I mentioned earlier, I had to keep an eye on costs. This led me to build an electroplating station, allowing me to not only clean all screws and brackets but also restore their corrosion protection with a long-lasting layer of zinc and nickel plating. For this, I used a high-power lab power supply so I could carefully control the voltage and current. I had to set up pre-wash, acid etching, electrolysis, catalyst, and final wash baths, which pretty much meant ending up with several 10L buckets for each step. I’m not going to paint a rosy picture—this process was quite challenging from the start, especially for someone who had never done it before. However, I prevailed and didn’t give up. Once I had all the screws and brackets ready, rebuilding the engine could finally begin. There was just one more thing to do—replace the bearings in the belt pulleys. But, of course, being me, I didn’t just swap out the old bearings. Instead, I removed them, sandblasted the pulleys in my small cabinet blaster, repainted them, and only then pressed the new bearings in. New chains, guides, gaskets and other parts. If Ikea has ever sold cars, this is what I would imagine the flat pack engine would look like. Now, adding all of that together, we arrive at the final result. I know I haven’t documented every step of the process, but there is already an amazing resource available online—the Honda S2000 workshop manual. It’s an absolutely fantastic guide and a must-have handbook for a project like this. The engine is now almost complete and looks like new. This is also thanks to the replacement of the plastic cable sleeve with a brand-new one. There has also been another important wiring upgrade—I installed a thicker wire from the alternator, a new wire for the starter motor, and a thicker ground wire. If I had kept everything stock, this wouldn’t have been necessary, but this will be important for the sound system. Yes, your eyes aren’t deceiving you—I said sound system. I will dedicate an entire chapter to the sound system, so there’s more to come on that topic. As a nice finishing touch, I decided to wrap the exhaust manifold. I don’t think it will improve performance, but it definitely looks aesthetically cool—and yes, I did dent the oil filter.  Hope you enjoyed the images, and if you’re still hooked, that’s it for now! The engine can be set aside, and in the next chapter, I will be restoring the fuel tank, refurbishing the subframes, and creating my own solid brake lines from marine-grade stainless steel.  

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Honda S2000 Build Series - Part 1 Introduction

Reviving a Legend: My Year-Long DIY Honda S2000 Restoration Journey It all started with a simple clutch job. At least, that was the plan. has turned to completely dismantling the car down to the nuts and bolts and turned to a full-blown restoration project—one that would test my relationship, my wallet, and I would learn so many new skills. I had to expand my set of tools, and geared with the knowledge from endless watching of YouTube channels, and the sheer determination to see this through, I embarked on a year-long journey to bring this once-tired S2000 back to life and more than it's former glory, I wanted to build the S2000 of my dreams, car that keeps it's spirit, adds some modern touches and improves on already excellent handling.  I have broken the process to multiple articles as reading everything in one would be quite tiresome and very very long.  Stripping the car to bare metal, preparing and protecting the shell  Rebuilding the engine and drivetrain with differential upgrade Refurbishing the subframes, all suspension components and Big Brake Kit Reassembling with restored or brand-new brackets and bolts Adding 20th anniversary package  Modernizing the electronics to bring the car to the 2020s Designing and installing a custom sound system Completing a full respray for better than factory-fresh look Of course, like any DIY restoration, it went over budget, over schedule, and way beyond what I initially expected—but that’s just part of the process, right?  Before we begin, I think it is time to introduce myself and, most importantly, the car itself. The story begins in December 2011 when I got my hands on a car that had been described as my early mid-life crisis. I never imagined I would keep it for this long, let alone grow to love it so much that we would become inseparable. Although destiny has tested our bond on more than a couple of occasions, I’ll save those stories for another time. And here I am 14 years ago, just as we arrived home—a much slimmer version of myself, with a lot more hair still on my head too. Do people still remember paper road tax discs?   The car is an AP1, made in the year 2000, Berlina Black with a red leather interior—just the perfect combination. It was one of the cheaper ones from an Autotrader advert, and I paid £4,500. That price feels like a distant past, as nowadays (as of 2025), it would be around £10k, especially given that it was completely stock, had only 80k miles, no rust, and no issues—at least, none that I knew of. But that’s a story for another time. It was the perfect weekend toy, which at that time also served as my daily driver—and what a daily it was. Now, fast-forwarding to May 2022, and the car needed a new clutch—again. Although the clutch was replaced at 90k miles, it didn’t even last 20k miles. Partly, maybe, because of my driving style, but also because the garage recommended an Exedy clutch kit when they replaced it. If only I had known back then. Well, I’m taking it as a lesson learned, and... And this is where the restoration project begins—with removing the gearbox from the car. All I wanted to do was change the clutch so I could enjoy the car for the summer. However, once I had removed the gearbox and faced the prospect of having to go through the process again in a year or two (as I had always planned to restore the car eventually—just not that year), my mind was made up. I wasn’t going to go through that process again. Without a ramp, it was quite a challenge, but I managed. However, it wasn’t the easiest of jobs, especially since I was trying to complete all the tasks myself.   Before I begin, I have a little confession to make. I'm not a trained or professional auto mechanic; however, I have been taking care of my cars for some years, so I do know a thing or two about cars. Let's GO!!!! Taking the gearbox out wasn’t the easiest of jobs, mainly due to having the car on just four jack stands. Even though they were at their highest level, I had just enough space to slide the gearbox out from under the car. That was the breaking point for me—it was now or never. Instead of just replacing the clutch, I decided to go all "Ondrej" on it and started a full inspection. I checked everything—searched for rust, examined the condition of the bodywork (especially under the car), and, of course, took a close look at the dreaded wheel arches. And yes, I found a rust spot. After poking with the screwdriver and it wend straight through, adding to the list, welding, body panel.  And here we go—starting to strip the car down. Everything must go—every panel, the engine, drive train, all suspension parts and subframes, all fixings, hoses, fuel tank, and the entire interior. I won’t stop until I’m left with just an empty shell.   These were my last moments of happiness—from this point on, the hard work began. I started by removing the rubber coating from under the car, which revealed many spots of what, luckily, turned out to be just surface rust. I was able to clear it with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, treat it with rust converter to prevent further progression, and once the entire underside of the car, engine bay, wheel arches, and rear panel were stripped to bare metal, I applied U-Pol Raptor epoxy primer as a direct-to-metal primer. I then used seam sealer on areas where panels overlapped to prevent water from getting in and causing issues a few years down the line—just as it was originally applied from the factory. Once that was complete, I applied a coat of U-Pol Raptor bed liner. For the underside of the car, I used a bed liner applicator spray gun to create a thicker layer and add some texture. Inside the engine bay, I applied a base coat with a clear coat, while the wheel arches and lower sections of the engine bay were coated with slightly reduced U-Pol Raptor bed liner and sprayed with a 2.0mm spray gun to achieve a satin finish without too much texture. As you have probably deduced from the write-up, I have used several different spray guns, so it’s time to cover my spray painting setup. Spray painting is a very messy job, and breathing in vapors is harmful to the human body. Let’s start with PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). I always wear nitrile gloves, a painting suit, and one of two masks—either a half-face mask with B1 protection against isocyanate paint solvents and dust particles, or when spraying clear coat, I use an air-fed mask with carbon filtration. Air Supply Setup As for the air supply—since I don't have three-phase power in my house, I opted for two air compressors. Most of the time, I use only one, unless I need to boost the air supply when I also need to supply air to the mask. Having two compressors also acts as extra air storage. One compressor is a 90L belt-driven unit. The second one is a 50L direct-drive unit. This setup might not be enough for a professional painting booth or for painting an entire car in one go, but I made it work by painting individual panels or just a couple of panels at a time. I will revisit the topic of painting later when I begin prep work and apply the final coats. That process also involved a trip to one of my favorite YouTubers for a lesson in automotive spray painting—an amazing experience that I will write about later. Air Filtration System To complete the air supply setup, the air compressors are connected to a 3-stage SATA filtration system, which includes: A water separator A large particle filter A final carbon filter (to ensure the air is safe to breathe when filtered through the secondary air filter in the air-fed mask) I also modified my garage to be safe for spray painting. I installed a large filtration system in the ceiling, which includes: A glass fiber filter, followed by A paper mist separator (to prevent mist particles from covering my parked cars). This system is ventilated through a 16" extractor fan that pushes the air out. I also have a smaller fan to bring in fresh air. Ideally, I should have had two fans of the same size or set them up the other way around, but that wasn’t possible. For occasional painting, I found this setup to be relatively adequate—the spray mist clears quickly, and no overspray lingers long enough to fall back onto the panels. My Spray Guns for Shell Preparation Iwata W400 BellAria with two size air caps 1.3mm for base and clear coat 1.8mm for primer Cheap Sealey HVLP742 Gravity Feed Spray Gun 2.0mm for reduced Raptor bed liner RAPTOR Schutz Application Gun for a textured bed liner finish     Once the underside of the car was finished and the engine bay was painted, I moved on to addressing the bodywork. However, I decided to only fix the rust hole by cutting out the affected area and welding in a patch. This was also the point when I decided to blank out the antenna hole and smooth it out.   Now to the other side to address the rust hole in passenger side. This has pretty much closed the first chapter. To recap: the car has been stripped down, the shell brought to bare metal and re-coated, and the rust addressed. Now, I can move on to the fuel tank, subframes, suspension parts, and start reinstalling the pipework for the brake lines. However, that will be for the next chapter.      

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